The advent of the printing press changed the situation. With Platina,
ca. 1474, an avalanche of cookery literature started. The secrets of
Scappi, "_cuoco secreto_" to the pope, were "scooped" by an
enterprising Venetian printer in 1570. The guilds of French mustard
makers and sauce cooks (precursors of modern food firms and
manufacturers of ready-made condiments) were a powerful tribe of
secret mongers in the middle ages. English gastronomic literature of
the 16th, 17th and even the 18th century is crowded with "closets
opened," "secrets let out" and other alluring titles purporting to
regale the prospective reader with profitable and appetizing secrets
of all sorts. Kitchen secrets became commercial articles.
These remarks should suffice to illustrate the assumption that the
Apicius book was not created for publication but that it is a
collection of abridged formulæ for private use, a treasure chest as it
were, of some cook, which after the demise of its owner, collector,
originator, a curious world could not resist to play with, although
but a few experienced masters held the key, being able to make use of
the recipes.
MEAT DIET
In perusing Apicius only one or two instances of cruelty to animals
have come to our attention (cf. recipes No. 140 and 259). Cruel
methods of slaughter were common. Some of the dumb beasts that were to
feed man and even had to contribute to his pleasures and enjoyment of
life by giving up their own lives often were tortured in cruel,
unspeakable ways. The belief existed that such methods might increase
the quality, palatability and flavor of the meat. Such beliefs and
methods may still be encountered on the highways and byways in Europe
and Asia today. Since the topic, strictly speaking does not belong
here, we cannot depict it in detail, and in passing make mention of it
to refer students interested in the psychology of the ancients to such
details as are found in the writings of Plutarch and other ancient
writers during the early Christian era. It must be remembered,
however, that such writers (including the irreproachable Plutarch)
were advocates of vegetarianism. Some passages are inspired by true
humane feeling, but much appears to be written in the interest of
vegetarianism.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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