[2] It is worth noting that Tor. and Tac. omit this
recipe entirely and that Tor. concludes the preceding
formula with the last sentence of the above formula,
except for the difference in one word. Tor. _et de
quacunque libra_ [List. _et al._ _herba_] _si volueris
facies ut demonstratum est suprà_. This might mean that
it is optional (in the preceding formula) to shape the
fish into one pound loaves instead of the small fish
balls, which is often done in the case of forcemeats, as
in veal, beef, ham loaves, or fish pie.
We are inclined to accept the reading of Torinus, for
the above way of preparing "any kind of vegetables or
herbs" is somewhat farfetched. Furthermore, the
vegetable dish would more properly belong in Book III.
Just another example of where readings by various
editors are different because of the interpretations of
one word. In this case one group reads _libra_ whereas
the other reads _herba_.
[147] A DISH OF SARDINES
_PATELLA DE APUA_ [1]
SARDINE LOAF (OR OMELETTE) IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [2] CLEAN THE
SARDINES [of skin and bones]; BREAK [and beat] EGGS AND MIX WITH [half
of the] FISH [3]; ADD TO THIS SOME STOCK, WINE AND OIL, AND FINISH
[the composition] BY HEATING IT. WHEN DONE TO A POINT, ADD [the
remaining part of the] SARDINES TO IT, LET IT STAND A WHILE [over a
slow fire to congeal] CAREFULLY TURN OVER [dish it up] MASK WITH A
WARM [4] WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V. _Patina de apua fricta_--same as _aphya_,
fried fresh small fish of the kind of anchovies,
sardines, sprats.
In experimenting with this formula we would advise to
use salt and oil judiciously if any at all. We have no
knowledge of the ancient _apua fricta_ other than our
making of modern sardines which is to fry them in oil as
quickly as possible after the fish has left the water,
for its meat is very delicate. For an omelette, our
modern sardines, including kippered smelts, sprotten,
and similar smoked and processed fish, contain
sufficient salt and fat to season the eggs of an
omelette.
[2] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] Tor. _cum aqua_; List., G.-V. _cum apua_. Perhaps a
typographical error in Tor. A little water is used to
dilute the eggs of an omelette, but Apicius already
prescribes sufficient liquids (stock or brine, wine) for
that purpose.
[4] Tor. _et in calore œnogarum perfundes_; List.,
G.-V. _ut coloret_--to keep the omelette in the pan long
enough to give it "color." We prefer the Torinus version
because an omelette should have no or very little color
from the fire (the eggs thus browned are indigestible)
and because hot _œnogarum_ (wine-fish sauce, not in
List.) is accompanying this dish, to give additional
savour and a finishing touch.
[148] FINE RAGOUT OF BRAINS AND BACON
_PATINA EX LARIDIS _[1]_ ET CEREBELLIS_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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