Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
Captain Beechey has observed, that the submarine slope is much less at
the extremities of the more elongated atolls in the Low Archipelago,
than at their sides; in speaking of Ducie’s Island he says[12] the
buttress, as it may be called, which “has the most powerful enemy (the
S.W. swell) to oppose, is carried out much further, and with less
abruptness than the other.” In some cases, the less inclination of a
certain part of the external slope, for instance of the northern
extremities of the two Keeling atolls, is caused by a prevailing
current which there accumulates a bed of sand. Where the water is
perfectly tranquil, as within a lagoon, the reefs generally grow up
perpendicularly, and sometimes even overhang their bases; on the other
hand, on the leeward side of Mauritius, where the water is generally
tranquil, although not invariably so, the reef is very gently inclined.
Hence it appears that the exterior angle varies much; nevertheless in
the close similarity in form between the sections of Keeling atoll and
of the atolls in the Low Archipelago, in the general steepness of the
reefs of the Maldiva and Chagos atolls, and in the perpendicularity of
those rising out of water always tranquil, we may discern the effects
of uniform laws; but from the complex action of the surf and currents,
on the growing powers of the coral and on the deposition of sediment,
we can by no means follow out all the results.
[12] Beechey’s “Voyage,” 4to edition, page 44.
Where islets have been formed on the reef, that part which I have
sometimes called the “flat” and which is partly dry at low water,
appears similar in every atoll. In the Marshall group in the North
Pacific, it may be inferred from Chamisso’s description, that the reef,
where islets have not been formed on it, slopes gently from the
external margin to the shores of the lagoon; Flinders states that the
Australian barrier has a similar inclination inwards, and I have no
doubt it is of general occurrence, although, according to Ehrenberg,
the reefs of the Red Sea offer an exception. Chamisso observes that
“the red colour of the reef (at the Marshall atolls) under the breakers
is caused by a Nullipora, which covers the stone _wherever the waves
beat;_ and, under favourable circumstances, assumes a stalactical
form,”—a description perfectly applicable to the margin of Keeling
atoll.[13] Although Chamisso does not state that the masses of
Nulliporæ form points or a mound, higher than the flat, yet I believe
that this is the case; for Kotzebue,[14] in another part, speaks of the
rocks on the edge of the reef “as visible for about two feet at low
water,” and these rocks we may feel quite certain are not formed of
true coral.[15] Whether a smooth convex mound of Nulliporæ, like that
which appears as if artificially constructed to protect the margin of
Keeling Island, is of frequent occurrence round atolls, I know not; but
we shall presently meet with it, under precisely the same form, on the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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