Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
Where the waves act with unequal force on the two sides of an atoll,
the islets appear to be first formed, and are generally of greater
continuity on the more exposed shore. The islets, also, which are
placed to leeward, are in most parts of the Pacific liable to be
occasionally swept entirely away by gales, equalling hurricanes in
violence, which blow in an opposite direction to the ordinary
trade-wind. The absence of the islets on the leeward side of atolls, or
when present their lesser dimensions compared with those to windward,
is a comparatively unimportant fact; but in several instances the reef
itself on the leeward side, retaining its usual defined outline, does
not rise to the surface by several fathoms. This is the case with the
southern side of Peros Banhos (Plate I., Figure 9) in the Chagos group,
with Mourileu atoll[19] in the Caroline Archipelago, and with the
barrier-reef (Plate I., Figure 8) of the Gambier Islands. I allude to
the latter reef, although belonging to another class, because Captain
Beechey was first led by it to observe the peculiarity in the question.
At Peros Banhos the submerged part is nine miles in length, and lies at
an average depth of about five fathoms; its surface is nearly level,
and consists of hard stone, with a thin covering of loose sand. There
is scarcely any living coral on it, even on the outer margin, as I have
been particularly assured by Captain Moresby; it is, in fact, a wall of
dead coral-rock, having the same width and transverse section with the
reef in its ordinary state, of which it is a continuous portion. The
living and perfect parts terminate abruptly, and abut on the submerged
portions, in the same manner as on the sides of an ordinary passage
through the reef. The reef to leeward in other cases is nearly or quite
obliterated, and one side of the lagoon is left open; for instance, at
Oulleay (Caroline Archipelago), where a crescent-formed reef is fronted
by an irregular bank, on which the other half of the annular reef
probably once stood. At Namonouïto, in the same Archipelago, both these
modifications of the reef concur; it consists of a great flat bank,
with from twenty to twenty-five fathoms water on it; for a length of
more than forty miles on its southern side it is open and without any
reef, whilst on the other sides it is bounded by a reef, in parts
rising to the surface and perfectly characterised, in parts lying some
fathoms submerged. In the Chagos group there are annular reefs,
entirely submerged, which have the same structure as the submerged and
defined portions just described. The Speaker’s Bank offers an excellent
example of this structure; its central expanse, which is about
twenty-two fathoms deep, is twenty-four miles across; the external rim
is of the usual width of annular reefs, and is well-defined; it lies
between six and eight fathoms beneath the surface, and at the same
depth there are scattered knolls in the lagoon. Captain Moresby
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