Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
There is one important point in the structure of barrier-reefs which
must here be considered. The accompanying diagrams represent north and
south vertical sections, taken through the highest points of Vanikoro,
Gambier, and Maurua Islands, and through their encircling reefs. The
scale both in the horizontal and vertical direction is the same,
namely, a quarter of an inch to a nautical mile. The height and width
of these islands is known; and I have attempted to represent the form
of the land from the shading of the hills in the large published
charts. It has long been remarked, even from the time of Dampier, that
considerable degree of relation subsists between the inclination of
that part of the land which is beneath water and that above it; hence
the dotted line in the three sections, probably, does not widely differ
in inclination from the actual submarine prolongation of the land. If
we now look at the outer edge of the reef (AA), and bear in mind that
the plummet on the right hand represents a depth of 1,200 feet, we must
conclude that the vertical thickness of these barrier coral-reefs is
very great.
I must observe that if the sections had been taken in any other
direction across these islands, or across other encircled islands,[8]
the result would have been the same. In the succeeding chapter it will
be shown that reef-building polypifers cannot flourish at great
depths,—for instance, it is highly improbable that they could exist at
a quarter of the depth represented by the plummet on the right hand of
the woodcut. Here there is a great _apparent_ difficulty—how were the
basal parts of these barrier-reef formed? It will, perhaps, occur to
some, that the actual reefs formed of coral are not of great thickness,
but that before their first growth, the coasts of these encircled
islands were deeply eaten into, and a broad but shallow submarine ledge
thus left, on the edge of which the coral grew; but if this had been
the case, the shore would have been invariably bounded by lofty cliffs,
and not have sloped down to the lagoon-channel, as it does in many
instances. On this view,[9] moreover, the cause of the reef springing
up at such a great distance from the land, leaving a deep and broad
moat within, remains altogether unexplained. A supposition of the same
nature, and appearing at first more probable is, that the reefs sprung
up from banks of sediment, which had accumulated round the shore
previously to the growth of the coral; but the extension of a bank to
the same distance round an unbroken coast, and in front of those deep
arms of the sea (as in Raiatea, see Plate II., Figure 3) which
penetrate nearly to the heart of some encircled islands, is exceedingly
improbable. And why, again, should the reef spring up, in some cases
steep on both sides like a wall, at a distance of two, three or more
miles from the shore, leaving a channel often between two hundred and
three hundred feet deep, and rising from a depth which we have reason
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