Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
The reef of Mauritius, in front of every river and streamlet, is
breached by a straight passage: at Grand Port, however, there is a
channel like that within a barrier-reef; it extends parallel to the
shore for four miles, and has an average depth of ten or twelve
fathoms; its presence may probably be accounted for by two rivers which
enter at each end of the channel, and bend towards each other. The fact
of reefs of the fringing class being always breached in front of
streams, even of those which are dry during the greater part of the
year, will be explained, when the conditions unfavourable to the growth
of coral are considered. Low coral-islets, like those on barrier-reefs
and atolls, are seldom formed on reefs of this class, owing apparently
in some cases to their narrowness, and in others to the gentle slope of
the reef outside not yielding many fragments to the breakers. On the
windward side, however, of the Mauritius, two or three small islets
have been formed.
It appears, as will be shown in the ensuing chapter, that the action of
the surf is favourable to the vigorous growth of the stronger corals,
and that sand or sediment, if agitated by the waves, is injurious to
them. Hence it is probable that a reef on a shelving shore, like that
of Mauritius, would at first grow up, not attached to the actual beach,
but at some little distance from it; and the corals on the outer margin
would be the most vigorous. A shallow channel would thus be formed
within the reef, and as the breakers are prevented acting on the shores
of the island, and as they do not ordinarily tear up many fragments
from the outside, and as every streamlet has its bed prolonged in a
straight line through the reef, this channel could be filled up only
very slowly with sediment. But a beach of sand and of fragments of the
smaller kinds of coral seems, in the case of Mauritius, to be slowly
encroaching on the shallow channel. On many shelving and sandy coasts,
the breakers tend to form a bar of sand a little way from the beach,
with a slight increase of depth within it; for instance, Captain
Grey[2] states that the west coast of Australia, in latitude 24°, is
fronted by a sand bar about two hundred yards in width, on which there
is only two feet of water; but within it the depth increases to two
fathoms. Similar bars, more or less perfect, occur on other coasts. In
these cases I suspect that the shallow channel (which no doubt during
storms is occasionally obliterated) is scooped out by the flowing away
of the water thrown beyond the line, on which the waves break with the
greatest force. At Pernambuco a bar of hard sandstone,[3] which has the
same external form and height as a coral-reef, extends nearly parallel
to the coast; within this bar currents, apparently caused by the water
thrown over it during the greater part of each tide, run strongly, and
are wearing away its inner wall. From these facts it can hardly be
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