Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
The section is true to the scale in a horizontal line, but it could not
be made so in a vertical one, as the average greatest height of the
land is only between six and twelve feet above high-water mark.
I will describe the section, commencing with the outer margin. I must
first observe that the reef-building polypifers, not being tidal
animals, require to be constantly submerged or washed by the breakers.
I was assured by Mr. Liesk, a very intelligent resident on these
islands, as well as by some chiefs at Tahiti (Otaheite), that an
exposure to the rays of the sun for a very short time invariably causes
their destruction. Hence it is possible only under the most favourable
circumstances, afforded by an unusually low tide and smooth water, to
reach the outer margin, where the coral is alive. I succeeded only
twice in gaining this part, and found it almost entirely composed of a
living Porites, which forms great irregularly rounded masses (like
those of an Astræa, but larger) from four to eight feet broad, and
little less in thickness. These mounds are separated from each other by
narrow crooked channels, about six feet deep, most of which intersect
the line of reef at right angles. On the furthest mound, which I was
able to reach by the aid of a leaping-pole, and over which the sea
broke with some violence, although the day was quite calm and the tide
low, the polypifers in the uppermost cells were all dead, but between
three and four inches lower down on its side they were living, and
formed a projecting border round the upper and dead surface. The coral
being thus checked in its upward growth, extends laterally, and hence
most of the masses, especially those a little further inwards, had
broad flat dead summits. On the other hand I could see, during the
recoil of the breakers, that a few yards further seaward, the whole
convex surface of the Porites was alive; so that the point where we
were standing was almost on the exact upward and shoreward limit of
existence of those corals which form the outer margin of the reef. We
shall presently see that there are other organic productions, fitted to
bear a somewhat longer exposure to the air and sun.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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