Coral Reefs; Volcanic Islands; South American Geology — CompleteDarwin, Charles
Science
Coral Reefs; Volcanic Islands; South American Geology — Complete
Darwin, Charles
Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
Where the waves act with unequal force on the two sides of an atoll,
the islets appear to be first formed, and are generally of greater
continuity on the more exposed shore. The islets, also, which are
placed to leeward, are in most parts of the Pacific liable to be
occasionally swept entirely away by gales, equalling hurricanes in
violence, which blow in an opposite direction to the ordinary
trade-wind. The absence of the islets on the leeward side of atolls, or
when present their lesser dimensions compared with those to windward,
is a comparatively unimportant fact; but in several instances the reef
itself on the leeward side, retaining its usual defined outline, does
not rise to the surface by several fathoms. This is the case with the
southern side of Peros Banhos (Plate 1, Fig. 9) in the Chagos group,
with Mourileu atoll,[19] in the Caroline Archipelago, and with the
barrier-reef (Plate I, Fig. 8) of the Gambier Islands. I allude to the
latter reef, although belonging to
another class, because Captain Beechey was first led by it to observe
the peculiarity in the question. At Peros Banhos the submerged part is
nine miles in length, and lies at an average depth of about five
fathoms; its surface is nearly level, and consists of hard stone, with
a thin covering of loose sand. There is scarcely any living coral on
it, even on the outer margin, as I have been particularly assured by
Captain Moresby; it is, in fact, a wall of dead coral-rock, having the
same width and transverse section with the reef in its ordinary state,
of which it is a continuous portion. The living and perfect parts
terminate abruptly, and abut on the submerged portions, in the same
manner as on the sides of an ordinary passage through the reef. The
reef to leeward in other cases is nearly or quite obliterated, and one
side of the lagoon is left open; for instance, at Oulleay (Caroline
Archipelago), where a crescent-formed reef is fronted by an irregular
bank, on which the other half of the annular reef probably once stood.
At Namonouito, in the same Archipelago, both these modifications of the
reef concur; it consists of a great flat bank, with from twenty to
twenty-five fathoms water on it; for a length of more than forty miles
on its southern side it is open and without any reef, whilst on the
other sides it is bounded by a reef, in parts rising to the surface and
perfectly characterised, in parts lying some fathoms submerged. In the
Chagos group there are annular reefs, entirely submerged, which have
the same structure as the submerged and defined portions just
described. The Speaker’s Bank offers an excellent example of this
structure; its central expanse, which is about twenty-two fathoms deep,
is twenty-four miles across; the external rim is of the usual width of
annular reefs, and is well-defined; it lies between six and eight
fathoms beneath the surface, and at the same depth there are scattered
knolls in the lagoon.
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