Cordova: A city of the MoorsCalvert, Albert Frederick
History
Cordova: A city of the Moors
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Arabs -- Spain; Córdoba (Spain) -- Description and travel; Córdoba (Spain) -- History
The Court of Oranges is shaded on one side by the oldest parts of the
Mosque. It is much larger than the Orange Court, or Patio de los
Naranjos, of the cathedral of Seville. Here was once the Court of
Ablutions, the place where the faithful purified themselves before
venturing within the Mezquita. The fountains, five in number, remain to
remind us of the original character of the courtyard. Women come here to
fetch water from the clear springs. They carry tall jars upon their
hips, or upon their heads, and loiter by the fountain to gossip.
This quiet court invites the aged and the idler. It is cool and
gratefully shaded, and when the orange-trees are in bloom a fragrance
pervades the place. The priests who officiate in the cathedral spend the
hours of leisure here, pacing in pairs up and down, as they smoke their
cigarettes. Now and again, one notes the lover waiting for his fair one
amid the fountains and the palms.
Once there were nineteen beautiful gateways leading into the Court of
the Oranges, and these were uniform with the nineteen aisles. We enter
by the Puerta de los Palmas, facing the Puerta del Perdon. The sumptuous
Gate of Pardon at once attracts us. It is over twenty feet high, with
the characteristic horseshoe arches and the elaborate Oriental
ornamentation. But this is not the ancient gate; it dates from the
Christian recapture of Cordova, and is constructed in imitation of the
Arabian work. It is surmounted by a belfry. The upper part of the
horseshoe arches is exceedingly ornate, and on either side are coats of
arms. The structure is in the Estilo Sarraceno. There are massive doors,
coated with copper, upon which are inscriptions. Above the door are
poorly painted frescoes.
The Bell Tower erected in place of the old minaret of Abd-er-Rahman III.
is not Moorish. It was designed by Hernan Ruiz, one of the Christian
architects who planned the cathedral. This tower is interesting as a
later monument, but it is not in harmony with the Mosque. It rises
higher than the former minaret, is more pretentious, and is out of
character with the surroundings. On the top is a figure of San Rafael.
The Court of Oranges is over four hundred feet long and more than two
hundred feet in breadth. There was a destruction of many of the trees
during a violent storm about seventy years ago, and some of the
orange-trees were not replaced. The courtyard has quiet cloisters on
three sides, with pillars and arches in the Gothic style.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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