Korea -- History; Korea -- Social life and customs
The wardrobe of the gentry consists of the ceremonial and the house
dress. The former, as a rule, is of fine silk, and the latter of
coarser silk or cotton. These “gorgeous Corean dresses” are of pink,
blue, and other rich colors. The official robe is a long garment like a
wrapper, with loose, baggy sleeves. This is embroidered with the stork
or phœnix for civil, and with the kirin, lion, or tiger for military
officers. Buttons are unknown and form no part of a Corean’s attire,
male or female, thus greatly reducing the labor of the wives and
mothers who ply the needle, which in Corea has an “ear” instead of an
“eye.” Strings and girdles, and the shifting of the main weight of the
clothing to the shoulders, take the place of these convenient, but
fugitive, adjuncts to the Western costume. There are few tailors’
shops, the women of each household making the family outfit.
Soldiers in full dress wear a sleeveless, open surcoat for display. The
under dress of both sexes is a short jacket with tight sleeves, which
for men reaches to the thighs, and for women only to the waist, and a
pair of drawers reaching from waist to ankle, a little loose all the
way down for the men, and tied at the ankles, but for the women made
tight and not tied. The females wear a petticoat over this garment, so
that the Coreans say they dress like Western women, and foreign-made
hosiery and under-garments are in demand. Although they have a variety
of articles of apparel easily distinguishable to the native eye, yet
their general style of costume is that of the wrapper, stiff, wide, and
inflated with abundant starch in summer, but clinging and baggy in
winter. The rule is tightness and economy for the working, amplitude
and richness of material for the affluent classes. The women having no
pockets in their dresses, wear a little bag suspended from their
girdle. This is worn on the right side, attached by cords. These
contain their bits of jewelry, scissors, knife, a tiger’s claw for
luck, perfume-bottle or sachet, a tiny chess-board in gold or silver,
etc. Besides the rings on their fingers the ladies wear hair-pins of
gold ornamented with bulbs or figures of birds. Many of them dust pun,
or white powder, on their faces, and employ various other cosmetics,
which are kept in their kiong-tai, or mirror toilet-stands; in which
also may be their so-hak, or book containing rules of politeness.
The general type of costume is that of China under the Ming dynasty. To
a Chinaman a Corean looks antiquated, a curiosity in old clothes; a
Japanese at a little distance, in the twilight, is reminded of ghosts,
or the snowy heron of the rice-fields, while to the American the Corean
swell seems compounded chiefly of bed-clothes, and in his most
elaborate costume to be still in his under-garments.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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