Cornell Nature-Study Leaflets: Being a selection, with revision, from the teachers' leaflets, home nature-study lessons, junior naturalist monthlies and other publications from the College of Agriculture, Cornell University, Ithaca, N.Y., 1896-1904New York State College of Agriculture
History
Cornell Nature-Study Leaflets: Being a selection, with revision, from the teachers' leaflets, home nature-study lessons, junior naturalist monthlies and other publications from the College of Agriculture, Cornell University, Ithaca, N.Y., 1896-1904
New York State College of Agriculture
Natural history; Nature study
The softwood cutting is made from tissue which is still growing, or at
least from that which is not dormant. It must not be allowed to wilt. It
must, therefore, be protected from direct sunlight and dry air until it
is well established; and if it has many leaves, some of them should be
removed, or at least cut in two in order to reduce the evaporating
surface. Keep the soil uniformly moist; and avoid soils which contain
much decaying organic matter, for these soils are breeding places of
fungi which attack the soft cutting and cause it to "damp off."
For most plants, the proper age of maturity of wood for the making of
cuttings may be determined by giving the twig a quick bend; if it snaps
and hangs by the bark, it is in proper condition; if it bends without
breaking it is too young and soft or too old; if it splinters, it is too
old and woody.
[Illustration: _Fig. 258. Carnation cutting. Natural size._]
The tips of strong upright shoots usually make the best cuttings.
Preferably each cutting should have a joint or node near its base; and
if the internodes are short, it may comprise two or three joints. Allow
one to three leaves to remain at the top. If these leaves are large,
cut them in two.
Insert the cutting half or more its length in clean sand or gravel.
Press the earth firmly about it. Throw a newspaper over the bed to
exclude the light--if the sun strikes it--and to prevent too rapid
evaporation. See that the soil is moist clear through, not on top only.
[Illustration: _Fig. 259. Rose cutting. More than one-half natural
size._]
Mason's sand is good earth in which to start cuttings. Or fine
gravel--sifted of most of its earthy matter--may be used. If the
cuttings are to be grown in a window, put three or four inches of the
earth in a shallow box or a pan. A soap box cut in two lengthwise, so
that it makes a box four or five inches deep--like a gardener's flat--is
excellent.
[Illustration: _Fig. 260. Cutting-bed, showing carnations and roses._]
If the box does not receive direct sunlight, it may be covered with a
pane of glass to prevent evaporation; and then the children may see the
plants more readily. But take care that the air is not kept too close,
else the damping-off fungi may attack the cuttings and they will rot at
the surface of the ground. See that the pane is raised a little at one
end to afford ventilation; and if water collects in drops on the under
side of the glass, remove the pane for a time. Cuttings of common
plants, as geranium, coleus, fuchsia, carnation, should be kept in a
living-room temperature.
The pictures are better than words. The line across them shows where the
soil comes. There are softwood cuttings of the geranium (Fig. 257), the
carnation (Fig. 258), and the rose (Fig. 259); and there is a gardener's
cutting bed (Fig. 260) with cuttings of carnations and roses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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