Cornell Nature-Study Leaflets: Being a selection, with revision, from the teachers' leaflets, home nature-study lessons, junior naturalist monthlies and other publications from the College of Agriculture, Cornell University, Ithaca, N.Y., 1896-1904New York State College of Agriculture
History
Cornell Nature-Study Leaflets: Being a selection, with revision, from the teachers' leaflets, home nature-study lessons, junior naturalist monthlies and other publications from the College of Agriculture, Cornell University, Ithaca, N.Y., 1896-1904
New York State College of Agriculture
Natural history; Nature study
We all admire the bright bulb flowers that are among the first to
blossom in the spring. These mostly come from Holland, or at least
attain their perfection there. We have just spoken of the importance of
planting flowers at such a time that they may live their career when our
climate is most like that from which they come. In the case of bulbs,
spring and early summer is the most favorable time for them in this
country, and fall is the proper time for planting.
The exact time in the fall to plant, how to plant, what bulbs to plant,
when to put a winter overcoat on the bed, and other details, I will
leave for Mr. Hunn to tell in the following Leaflet. He has had many
years' experience in the management of flowers, and I advise you to read
carefully what he says.
[Illustration: _Fig. 368. A bulb bed at the school house._]
LEAFLET LXXIX.
A TALK ABOUT BULBS BY THE GARDENER.[100]
BY C. E. HUNN.
[100] Nature-Study Quarterly, October, 1899.
[Illustration]
Perhaps you would like to hear from the gardener. Your Uncle John has
told you something about preparing a bed for your plants. His advice is
very good; but the bulbs we are to talk about are like those notional
children whom he mentions and they do not want tallow candles for any
part of their meal.
You should know that bulbs do not want to come into direct contact with
the stable fertilizer. They want the fertilizer below them where the
feeding roots may nibble at it when the bulb is hard at work developing
the leaves and flower. You know that all the leaves and the flowers were
made the year before, and the bulb simply holds them until the new roots
have formed. No kind of treatment will make a bulb produce more flowers
than were formed in the year it grew (last year); but the better the
treatment the larger and finer the flowers will be.
If I wanted to make a bulb bed, I should choose, if possible, a sandy
soil and throw out the top soil to the depth of six inches. Then I
should put into the bottom of the bed about two inches of well rotted
manure and spade it into the soil. Then I should throw back half of the
top soil, level it off nicely, set the bulbs firmly on this bed, and
then cover them with the remainder of the soil; in this way you will
have the bulbs from three to four inches below the surface. It is dark
down there and in the fall months the top of the ground is cooler than
at the depth of five or six inches and the top of the bulb will not want
to grow, while the bottom, which is always in a hurry, will send out
roots, to push out the leaves and flowers the next spring.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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