Cornell Nature-Study Leaflets: Being a selection, with revision, from the teachers' leaflets, home nature-study lessons, junior naturalist monthlies and other publications from the College of Agriculture, Cornell University, Ithaca, N.Y., 1896-1904New York State College of Agriculture
History
Cornell Nature-Study Leaflets: Being a selection, with revision, from the teachers' leaflets, home nature-study lessons, junior naturalist monthlies and other publications from the College of Agriculture, Cornell University, Ithaca, N.Y., 1896-1904
New York State College of Agriculture
Natural history; Nature study
When the weather is cold enough to freeze a hard crust on the soil, the
bed should have its winter overcoat. This may be straw, hay, cornstalks,
or leaves spread over the bed to the depth of six inches if the material
is coarse; but if you use leaves, three inches will be enough, because
the leaves lie close together and may smother out the frost that is in
the ground and let the bulbs start. What we want is to keep them asleep
until spring, because if they start too early the hard freezes of March
and early April will spoil their beauty if the leaves or flowers are
near or above the surface. Early in April the covering may be removed
gradually and should all be off the beds before the leaves show above
the ground.
[Illustration: _Fig. 369. Simple designs for bulb beds._]
Perhaps many of you cannot find a sandy place for your beds; if not,
make your beds as has been told you, leaving the stones in the bottom of
the bed for drainage. Then, when you are ready to set the bulb, place a
large handful of sand where your bulb is to go and set your bulb on it;
this will keep the water from standing around the bulb. Very good
results may be obtained on heavy soil by this method.
What kind of bulbs shall we put into these beds? Choose hyacinths,
tulips, narcissus, or daffodils, with snowdrops or crocuses of various
colors around the edge.
If you use hyacinths you can have the national colors, red, white, and
blue, or many shades of either color, as shown in the diagrams (Fig.
369). Of tulips you can have stars or ribbons of yellow, white, or
crimson, or in fact almost any color except true blue. In narcissus,
yellow, sulfur, and white are the colors. The little crocuses come in
yellow, blue, white, and striped colors, and are in bloom and gone
before the large flowers take your attention. Many other bulbs are fine
for spring flowering; but as most of them are more difficult to grow
and many of them rather expensive, I do not think we will discuss them
now.
Suppose we want a bed of red, white, and blue hyacinths (Fig. 369), and
make it six feet in diameter: how many bulbs would you want? Now,
hyacinths should be planted six inches apart each way, and the outside
row should be at least three inches from the edge of the bed. You see
you will want a little over one hundred bulbs, which, if one person had
to buy them, would cost him a considerable sum; but if fifty or more
boys and girls would club together it would be easy for everyone.
If you want a bed of tulips, they should be planted four or five inches
apart instead of six inches. So you will need more bulbs; but they are
cheaper than hyacinths. The narcissus bulbs, being still smaller than
tulips, may be planted three inches apart; and the little crocuses, the
first flowers of spring, should touch one another, as should also the
snowdrops.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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