Porthqueen has its pilchard cellars cut out of the rocks; and at the
western end of its bay Pentire Head stands out boldly into the Atlantic
with a cliff castle at its extreme point. Pentire to some extent
shelters Padstow Bay, but the entrance to the harbour is made dangerous
by the Doom Bar lying across it. Here the rounded, sand-powdered Bray
Hill is supposed to have buried under the drift sand the remains of a
Roman town, but that there was such a Roman settlement is very doubtful.
Further inland is the church of St Enodoc recently dug out of the sand,
and the path to the porch has singular "Lord's Measures" that have been
collected and are here planted. They were measures for grain. Of Padstow
something shall be said elsewhere. Before reaching Trevose Head is
Harlyn Bay, where from under the sand has been dug out a cemetery of the
iron age, the skeletons crouching with their chins to their knees, in
slate kists or coffins, with bronze ornaments, glass and amber beads,
and iron instruments. Here also by the falling of the earth or sand some
gold ornaments of the Celtic period were laid bare. On Trevose Head is a
lighthouse. In Constantine Bay are the remains of a church half buried
in sand, and with bones strewn about it. The font from this abandoned
church has been transferred to St Merryn. It is of black Catacluse
stone, as are the piers and arches of the church, giving it a sombre
look. Passing the little Porthcothan we come to the noble cliffs of
Bodruthan Steps, perhaps the finest bit of the north-coast scenery, and
then reach Mawgan Porth, the estuary of the tiny stream that waters
the vale of Lanherne. Here is the ancient mansion of the Arundells,
dating from 1580, granted by Lord Arundell to Carmelite nuns, who came
to England, at the outbreak of the French Revolution, in 1794. They have
remained here ever since in seclusion. Near the door into their chapel
is an old cross with inscription and interlaced work. The church has a
beautifully proportioned tower, a good rood-screen, and many monuments
of the Arundells, as well as a remarkable Gothic cross. A grove of
Cornish elms like whips occupies the bottom of the valley. The church
and parish are St Mawgan in Pyder.
[Illustration: Newquay Harbour]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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