Cornwall (England : County) -- Description and travel
On the seaward side the hotel lounge has been carried out in a great
bay, and from the sweep of windows there are no less than four
lighthouses to be seen, with their varying flashes. The bright ruby
spot is the Longships Light on a grisly reef so near that it looks as if
you could throw a stone upon it, though really two miles away. It is
only red on the landward side. Ships usually pass outside this reef
unless the sea is very calm, for it is a dangerous coast. It seems
hardly believable that at times the men in the lighthouse are held up
for two months by the swell which prevents their relief arriving, but so
it is, and even on the calmest days it is no easy matter to land. The
Longships is a reef composed of several rocky islets, some of which are
connected by bridges and in fine weather the men can walk about and even
fish, but in rough weather the great doors in the tower are closed for
days together. When the swell comes, rolling from out the profoundly
disturbed depths of the Atlantic and heralding a storm, the sheeted foam
flies high above the lantern and often the last vision one has before
night drops like a black curtain is that white froth of breaking foam
around the glowing red eye in the tower. Further out to the south is the
well-known Wolf Lighthouse, and far to the west that on the Scilly
Isles.
Even in the depth of winter, on clear white frosty moonlight nights,
there are those who motor down to see the Land's End by moonlight, but
usually the "trip" element occupies a very small part of the day and of
the year; and for the greater part of the time the place is strangely
solitary. When the storms beat on the coast, driven by the wild west
winds, the boom and clangour is heard as far inland as Lamorna Cove.
The chief characteristic of the weather is its uncertainty; there are
clear bright intervals when the sea and sky are of electric blue and the
headlands are etched out on them in black, and then all in a moment the
lowering wall of storm comes up visibly; the outlines of everything are
obliterated in one sweep, and a squall of hail as big as peas shrieks
around, whitening the ground, then flies on in its mad course, to be
succeeded by the joyous freshness of the clean-washed air and the glory
of the vivifying sun. In winter time it is not safe to go two hundred
yards from the hotel without a mackintosh, and yet just across the waste
of heather along the little sheep tracks on the slopes, what wonderful
views are to be seen in the steep-sided bays filled with a smother of
foam, where the stones being driven irresistibly against one another
grind off their harshnesses.
It is a terrible coast, and nearly always, even on the calmest day,
when the wolves might be supposed to be sleeping, the sudden baring of a
fang in the whitening of some jagged rock, a moment before invisible,
shows the lurking danger.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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