Cornwall (England : County) -- Description and travel
As for the islands themselves, those who brave the crossing come away
with strangely mixed feelings according to their temperament. If they go
bathed in the glamour of _Armorel of Lyonnesse_, by far the best of
Besant's books, they will see the romance and charm of these windswept
bits of rock. If they are there in the spring they will visit with
delight the acres of carefully tended flowers guarded by high thick
walls and hedges from the ever sweeping western winds; if a little
later in the nesting time of gull and guillemot, razor-bill, puffin and
cormorant, say the first week in June, then the sights of bird-life will
well repay them. They may even find the nesting-places of the tern,
shearwater, or such voracious pirates as the kestrel and peregrine, or
the stormy petrel; but this will be in the outlying islets, as the
greater traffic and population of late years has driven many of the shy
birds away. The halcyon days when sea and sky are one soft blue dome and
the water washes and laps around the rocky shores give a glimpse of
peace and remoteness such as one might imagine form part of heaven. The
masses of cloud piled up in towering grandeur, the vast horizons and
even the beat of the sudden squalls will find response in some people.
But there are few save islanders born and bred who can revel in the lash
and struggle and constant menace of the black winter days.
Surrounded by water on all sides the temperature is kept equable, hence
it is that narcissus, violets, anemones, daffodils and other of the
earliest spring flowers can be grown in the open and sent to be
delivered in London weeks before the home counties can produce them.
It is rather curious that the name by which the whole group is known
should not be that of the largest, or even of one of the largest,
islands. Scilly is a mere rock rising from the sea to the west of
Bryher, it is flat and cleft in two by a deep chasm through which the
water runs. The currents are very strong and it is not often a landing
is possible here. St. Mary's, the principal island, is the one where the
steamers arrive, at Hugh Town. This name has not any authentic
derivation, though it has been suggested it may be connected with the
word "huer," to call or cry out. Tresco is next in size, and in summer a
steam launch runs across to it from St. Mary's. Here lives the
proprietor of the Scillies, Mr. Dorrien-Smith, in a comfortable house
amid a perfectly glorious garden, in which are the ruins of an old Abbey
built in the time of Henry I. There is some fine rock-scenery to be
found in the outlying islets, if one takes the trouble to look for it in
a boat, and some of the views of the scattered islands seen from a
height on a clear day can never be forgotten.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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