Cornwall (England : County) -- Description and travel
The cliffs are carved into many fantastic and bewildering shapes. Before
we have got very far we are brought up short by an immense hole or
funnel, cut clean-lipped from the short turf, and just the shape of one
of those paper twists shop-keepers make for sweets. It is much larger in
circumference than the Funnel at Tol Pedn. No railing protects the edge;
people at the Lizard are supposed to have their wits about them. By
lying down flat and approaching cautiously, we can peer over and see
that here also the sea runs in on the floor. This is one of the cliff
vagaries made within the memory of man. On the night of February 19,
1847, the hole appeared suddenly, yet so quietly that no one knew of it
until it was seen. There had apparently been a shell or roof which had
given way as the sea scooped out the earth from below. Yet that such a
sudden catastrophe is possible shows how little we know about what goes
on under our feet.
A little further on a column of spray shoots in fluffy steam from a
blow-hole every few seconds after the last billow has fallen away. Near
it a huge boulder perched on a great plinth balances at an uncertain
angle. How did it get there? At every turn "chairs" of stone extend a
silent invitation to us to seat ourselves and gaze at the ships passing
and repassing in a silent and endless procession.
The Serpentine rock streaked with hornblende, felspar, slate and
green-stone, shows changing colours like a pigeon's breast. It weathers
into columns and pillars and arches and caverns, as if on purpose to
delight the hearts of children of a larger growth, too old for spades
and pails. Only a mile or two away at Kynance Cove these wonders come to
perfection in the torn and twisted rocks lying in masses on the shore,
which is covered with shining sand in summer but scoured black and stony
by the rough seas in winter. By Caerthillian Cove we may pass to
Pentreath beach and Yellow Carn and thus to Kynance. At places the
cliffs have broken away forming a natural quarry and here come the
people from the little town above, and search for well-coloured
fragments of serpentine to fashion into candlesticks, and brooches, and
ash-trays to sell to tourists. Dark red is a rare and popular colour
and dark green also; chocolate with splashes of green, like variegated
marble, is often seen. There is little fishing to be done on this wild
rigid coast, and beyond some rough farming and their "serpentine" shops,
it is hard to see what the population live upon. The rocks at the Lizard
are split more often horizontally than vertically, and instead of being
sharp upright columns as the granite fragments are at Land's End, these
are broad lumps giving a curious sense of steady untiring watching with
uplifted heads.
[Illustration: CAERTHILIAN COVE]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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