Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
The rules and regulations of ceremonial dress are as exacting, if not
as unalterable, as ever were those of the Medes and Persians. Kings and
Emperors punctiliously observe the etiquette which frames them, so that
every royal meeting or parting or festivity is attended in a carefully
prescribed garb, and the Master of the Royal Wardrobe must be deeply and
wisely versed in the history of the nations, and worthy to take a diploma
in the first division of the Court of Costume.
His Majesty the King has a lynx eye; no item escapes his notice; and
he gives as much attention to the details of everyday garb as to those
of clothes for merry or solemn occasion. Unlike the Queen, he rules
the fashions, and his wearing of a low hat or a high hat, in white or
in brown, a tweed suit or a frock-coat, white boots or black ones,
decides such question for the multitude when attending inaugurations,
race meetings, and other social functions, and the Royal decisions are
heralded forth in the press for public guidance.
At the recent coronation there was much discussion of the form and shape
of the robes for the ladies, and the King, anxious to conciliate the
strictest etiquette of yesterday with a nice sense of the fashionable
exigencies of to-day, concerned himself with the shape of the bodice
and trimming of the train. The results we may all remember, the
deeply crimson velvet, the borders of miniver, and the license of the
jewelled stomacher and the lace under-skirt; while the rank which is
but the guinea's stamp found expression in the epaulette, the coronet,
and the bars of fur. In truth, the coronation robe, even under its
improved conditions, cannot conscientiously be described as becoming
or comfortable. The only virtue that I can see in it is its ponderous
simplicity, the details of which I will give--for the benefit of a future
generation--in the pompous language of the official proclamation.
The edict issued informed those immediately concerned that "the robe
or mantle of the Peers be of crimson velvet edged with miniver, the
cape furred with miniver pure, and powdered with bars or rows of ermine
according to their degree, viz.--
Barons. Two rows.
Viscounts. Two rows and a half.
Earls. Three rows.
Marquesses. Three rows and a half.
Dukes. Four rows.
"The said mantles or robes to be worn over the full Court dress, uniforms,
or regimentals.
"Their coronets to be of silver-gilt, the caps of crimson velvet turned
up with ermine, with a gold tassel on the top, and no jewels or precious
stones are to be set or used in the coronets, or counterfeit pearls
instead of silver balls.
"The coronet of a Baron to have on the circle or rim six silver balls at
equal distances.
"The coronet of a Viscount to have on the circle sixteen silver balls.
"The coronet of an Earl to have on the circle eight silver balls raised
upon points, with gold strawberry leaves between the points.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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