Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
Although it has not been stated that the most audacious actor ever
ventured to play _Hamlet_ in a tall hat, solecisms no less grave have
in the long ago been committed and condoned, even applauded. Imagine
Othello addressing the "most potent, grave, and reverend signiors" of
sixteenth-century Venice in a stiff-skirted coat, breeches and waistcoat
of the English fashion of George II.'s day, with a full-bottomed wig, a
three-cornered hat, and a black face! Yet that was how Garrick dressed
the part, and, notwithstanding, thrilled his audience to enthusiasm;
whilst handsome Spranger Barry won even Colley Cibber's applause when
he acted the dusky Moor dressed in a full suit of gold-laced scarlet,
a small cocked hat, knee breeches, and silk stockings! Then, picture
Macbeth, as Garrick played him, in a 1750 suit of black silk, and silk
stockings and shoes, with buckles at his knees and feet, and a tie wig,
or in the scarlet and gold-laced uniform of a British general of George
III.'s reign! And fancy Lady Macbeth in enormous hooped petticoats and
huge flounces, as Mrs. Yates dressed her; yet, when she said, "Give
me the daggers," and took them in her hands, as an old print shows
her doing, no one in the audience recorded a thought that the action
was incongruous with the costume, or the costume with the tragedy.
What a contrast to the superb green and gold glories of the costume of
Miss Ellen Terry's Lady Macbeth, immortalised by Sargent! But there
was no attempt in those days to give the audiences anything better.
When Benjamin West asked Garrick why he did not initiate reform in
stage-costume, his answer was that the public would not allow it. "They
would throw a bottle at my head," added the great actor, and he found it
easier to elude the bottle--at least, that particular bottle.
I believe it is to John Kemble we are indebted for the first careful
study of dressing a part on its merits, even though he did not allow
himself too near an approach to accuracy, lest, as he said, the public
should call him in disgust "an antiquary." So he did not hesitate, in
playing Macbeth, to wear a great bonnet of the 42nd Highlanders--the
Black Watch. But when Sir Walter Scott saw this, he was so shocked at
the anachronism that he plucked out the big plume and replaced it with a
single broad eagle's feather, the time-honoured symbol of the Highland
chieftain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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