Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
It was, however, to the antiquarian researches of R. J. Planché, for
Charles Kemble's production of _King John_ at Covent Garden in 1823,
that our stage owes its first important step in the reform of costume.
Macready, who urged the reform still further, carried his sense of the
importance of costume to such a point during the rehearsals of _Henry V._
that he went to bed in his armour, desiring that, not only should the
dress become the part, but he should become the dress. I recollect Sir
Henry Irving quoting this fact, when telling me that he himself always
followed the practice of wearing the clothes for a new part a few days
previous to assuming them on the stage.
Sir Henry was, of course, a past master in the art of theatrical costume,
and to his genius and taste more than to any other influence we may
attribute its present development on the English stage.
Let the old playgoer prate enthusiastically as he will about Charles
Kean, and his splendid Shakespearean revivals at the Princess's Theatre,
dramatic art has never been more picturesquely, richly, and appropriately
clothed than it was at the Lyceum Theatre in the great days of Henry
Irving. Even to talk to him of his productions was a liberal education in
all arts appertaining to the theatre. That the great actor took infinite
personal trouble with every detail, and would, in his own costume,
direct the cut of the drapery, the shape of the shirt collar, and the
exact position of the sash, or the fold of the turban, all who were
privileged to associate with him at work are fully aware. I recall many
conversations with him on the subject of stage costume, and invariably he
would bring out some point of its psychological bearing. As to variation
in the interpretation of a character under the influence of a different
dress, for instance, I remember his saying--"When you have the good
fortune to act with an actress like Miss Terry, the artist dominates the
woman under any conditions of costume, and the least suggestion is easily
grasped and appreciated. In all times, modes and manners must influence
each other, and different gestures inevitably accompany different
costumes. You would not, for instance, see a lady when wearing Grecian
draperies disport herself in the same fashion as one bearing the stiff
stomacher and monstrous farthingale of the Elizabethan period."
[Illustration: MISS ELLEN TERRY AS MISTRESS PAGE.]
Again, we were discussing the question of colour in relation to certain
emotions, moods, and traits of character. "Who would think of playing a
murderer in sky-blue satin and silver?" Sir Henry said. And not pausing
for my reply: "Of course one expects a woman to go mad in white. Can you
picture Hamlet in colours? Surely he demands black clothes, indeed the
text says as much,--although the colour for the expression of mourning in
Denmark at that period was, I believe, red."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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