Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
Edward II.'s reign welcomed a new mode of dressing the hair, which was
parted in the middle; over each ear was a golden basket, and on the top
was a band of gold, narrower in the centre and broader towards the ears,
and the coverchief was placed on the top of the head. A peculiar method
too was the arranging of the hair in sausage rolls, covered with a white
veil held in a lattice-work of gold. On the whole, head-dresses were more
remarkable than beautiful and becoming. The caput, which came a little
later, and might have been called ugly, fitted closely to the head, and
had a broad scolloped border, and sometimes, in addition, two lappets
which hung to the waist; others were pointed as the bishop's mitre; and
most were characterised by a lack of height with no hair visible; and
the pendent veil at the back bore an embroidered border. There was much
hankering after yellow hair in the reign of Richard II., and those who
were unblessed with golden locks would dye them with saffron.
Gloves received the special attention of women in the fourteenth century,
and, when not actually on the hands, were placed in the girdle or
carried. The gauntlets were jewelled, and embroidery was on the back or
round the base of the fingers. Spain and France were famous for their
proficiency and industry in the making of gloves, and fur and sheepskin
were used for these as well as wool and silk.
In Germany the costume affected during the fourteenth century differed
but little from that of the thirteenth. The dress of the women consisted
of a long garment with a shorter under-dress, and over this another
dress was worn, and over this again a mantle. The loose under-garment
was very long, closely fitting to the hips, whence the skirt increased
considerably in width; long narrow sleeves were made of white or coloured
silk or of fine linen, and the necks of the dresses and the borders of
the sleeves were trimmed with tracings of gold; a short chemise was
visible from neck to waist, and the Hausfrau bunch of keys hung from the
girdle. It is on record, indeed, that German women in this century were
buried with their keys, and that divorced women were bound to return
them to their husbands. Young girls wore a long sleeveless robe closely
fitting to the hips and ample in the skirt, and over this a long gown of
equal fulness fell from the neck, extremely wide upon the shoulders, and
covering the forearm on both sides as a long tabard, circular pieces
being cut out from each side, and the lower portion of the skirt sewn up.
The old Teuton mode of hair-dressing with flowing locks prevailed, but
plaiting also was in vogue, twisted with coloured or gold ribbons, or
held at the back in a golden net. Simple garlands of flowers were placed
in the hair, and a fillet of stuff or metal, this being shaped either as
a crown, a diadem, or a coronet; and the matron adopted a fur-trimmed cap.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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