Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
Mlle. de Ninon and Mesdames de Montespan and de Maintenon each inspired
the names of a coiffure, a crown, and a cap, the last lady giving its
title to a head-dress in the form of a scarf entwining a helmet. The
battle of Steinkirk stood sponsor to a cravat and to a three-cornered
fichu trimmed with gold and silver fringes; and the "Ninon" coiffure was
parted in the front and flowed in curls at either side, the back being
held by a ribbon.
No such distinction was gained by the English "mistresses" and maids of
honour, whose names and escapades were legion; nor did they seek much
individuality in their clothes, confident that the fashions prevailing
were sufficient to excite the envy of the one sex and the admiration of
the other; yet Lady Castlemaine, Miss Hamilton, Miss Warmestre, Miss
Jennings, Miss Temple, Miss Price, Miss Stewart, and all the rest of the
merry gang, were slaves of the mirror, and the joys of the masquerade
were high in their favour, and for this no costume was too extravagantly
absurd or too absurdly extravagant to obtain their satisfaction.
[Illustration: THE LACE COMMODE.]
The distinguishing feature of fashion was the lace commode, which
prevailed ubiquitously; its simplest charms are easily realised by
the pictures on these pages, where, too, are evident examples of the
_chopine_ and the clogs, whose _pas de fascination_ were executed under
such disadvantages. High heels were conspicuous everywhere, but it was
left to Italy to have the honour of popularising the most ridiculous
fashion of the _chopines_ or stilted clogs, which asserted themselves at
different heights, mostly outrageous, beneath a covering of gauffered
leather, a commodity which looks like the modern poker-work. The idea of
the _chopines_ was imported from Turkey to Italy and thence to England,
where, however, it is well to mention, it received but the scantiest
consideration. The height of the _chopines_ served to indicate rank,
and some were of such monstrous inconvenience that they necessitated
their wearer being supported on either side while she walked. Every
conceivable device was sought for the decoration of the shoes, and a
frenzy of extravagance broke out in buckles of gold, silver, paste, and
diamonds.
[Illustration: CLOGS AND CHOPINES.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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