Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
After the battle of Waterloo, fashion decidedly changed, and the
clinging gown, with its skimpy skirt hanging from a short belt or Empire
bodice, was discarded in favour of a much-trimmed dress standing well
away from the figure, and fancy would work its elaborate will on the
trimming of these skirts with scollops, many-coloured embroideries,
fringes and gold braid. The bodice still remained a minor quantity,
supplied with two short puffed sleeves and filled to the bust or somewhat
below it with a jewelled clasp or some decoration of embroidery or
lace, whose indiscretions were presumably to be concealed beneath a
dainty scarf of silk or coloured gauze, an elegance which failed in its
duties lamentably, and hung limply over the arm as if ashamed of its
delinquencies.
The fashionable outdoor dress could hardly have been suitable to the
English climate, unless indeed its habits have altered strangely, and its
detractors have reason for their abuse. The loose robe was of jaconet
muslin open at the neck and covered with embroidery, and round the
shoulders would hang the scarf, usually dropping to the waist, and held
in the hollow of the elbow; and on the head appeared a French cap of
blonde lace trimmed with ribbons.
In the 'thirties, dress was merely a travesty of the 'twenties; huge
sleeves and stiffened petticoats were universal, and the tight-fitting
bodices, cut with sloping shoulders, gave a thin flat appearance to the
waist, further accentuated by the ballooning sleeves, setting closely to
the wrist. The skirts were short, and still further enhanced the immense
effect of the sleeves; and round the waist a plain band added angularity
to the outline. Revers, shaped like capes at the back and pointed in the
front, were on day and evening bodices alike, and pelerines of all kinds
established their popularity, being tucked into the waist, or having wide
long ends crossed at the back or front. Blonde lace was a favourite
trimming to all gowns; and a style of dress that took the fancy for a
short time was known as the "tunic." This was made with a sleeveless
bodice and pointed shoulders, the under-dress being two inches longer and
of a colour different from the skirt, which was open in the front. Bright
colours were very popular, but, on the whole, the spirit of costume was
chastened, and muffs, fans, bouquets, and parasols became considerably
smaller.
[Illustration: LADY BLESSINGTON.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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