Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
Quite the most gaudy dress is that characteristic of Grison. The bodice
is of bright orange, laced with green ribbon over a blue stomacher,
and the skirt is in a penetrating tone of violet hemmed with green, in
brilliant contrast to red stockings worked with white clocks. The effect
is happily modified by a black lace cap, which forms a point on the
forehead and is tied under the chin.
To those in quest of the eminently becoming, the costume of the women
of Unterwalden commends itself. The hair is parted in front, and hangs
down behind in two plaits joined by a species of slide in silver. The
short full skirt is evolved from coarse brown material, the stockings are
blue and the shoes black, with metal heels and ribbon bows. The apron
is provided with a scarlet bib, and the sleeveless corsage is filled in
with a white chemisette, with puffed elbow-sleeves terminating in black
velvet bands and frills of lace. About the neck is a deep filigree silver
collar, from which hang two enormous silver pendants, one resting on the
bust at either side.
[Illustration: THE AUSTRIAN PEASANT-BRIDE IN BLACK.]
The typical Roman peasant woman makes a picturesque figure in a skirt of
some dark material and an apron brightly trimmed with two broadish bands
of embroidery, one appearing immediately below the hips and the other at
the knees. The tight, sleeveless corsage laces behind, and is supported
by narrow shoulder-straps, while the white chemisette has long sleeves
and is low at the throat. Ordinarily the hair is allowed to hang loosely
beneath a head-dress fashioned from a length of snowy linen, folded in
such a way as to form a narrow strip, which is pinned at the temples and
flung back to hang down behind. All but the very poorest wear necklaces,
pendent ear-rings, chains and crosses.
[Illustration: A CROATIAN PEASANT.]
The costume of the Trastaverini, although they are inhabitants of the
same city, differs somewhat from that of the Romans. The women plait
their hair, decorate it with silver bodkins, and confine it in a silk
net. On gala days they don velvet bodices laced with gold, and silk
skirts, which may be white to match the chemisette, or coloured, an
essential accessory being a scarlet apron. The men also wear silk nets,
their jackets being of black velvet enlivened by red silk sashes, while
their black shoes vaunt large silver buckles.
In some of the Pontifical States there is striking resemblance between
the dress common to the district and that associated with the Irish
peasantry. The women tie kerchiefs on their heads in the same way as
their Hibernian sisters, a second point of similarity existing in the
hooded cloaks.
[Illustration: A CROATIAN PEASANT.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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