Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
Strangely incongruous though it seems, when taken in conjunction with
their sunny clime and joyous levity of temperament, the peasantry of
Florence exhibit a marked predilection for black. On fête-days the
Tuscans don a tiny hat cocked at an acute angle over the left ear,
the hair at the other side being profusely decorated with pearls or an
ornamental comb. They also display a pretty taste in jewellery, wearing
pearl ear-rings and pearl and coral necklaces, other articles of attire
including black velvet slippers, and sleeveless bodices laced with ribbon
over a white chemisette. Occasionally the hair is turned up in a knot
beneath a veil which hangs down behind, but, when working or going to
market, the women imprison it in a silken mesh adorned with tassels, the
latter being sometimes of gold and silver.
The Bolognese peasant women continue faithful to the tradition of the
_zendada_, a veil falling from the plaited hair and draped over the
shoulders in graceful fashion. Coral is greatly in demand for purposes of
adornment, and combs and pins are liberally employed to decorate the hair.
So intense is her love for finery, that in Lombardy it is a common
occurrence for a peasant woman to spend all her earnings upon jewellery,
going barefoot the while. Another weakness of hers takes the direction
of large German fans in black and gold. These are much in evidence at
all festivities in Turin. Bright colours are preferred to sombre ones,
and it is easy to distinguish girls from married women, as the latter
have square linen veils, while the former allow their hair to be seen,
braiding it, and fastening it with a comb or formidable-looking pin.
[Illustration: IN CORFU TO DAY.]
Economical and self-denying though she may be in other respects, the
peasant woman of Genoa is recklessly extravagant the moment it is a
question of jewellery. To what lengths her passion for display carries
her may be gauged from the fact that when she is going to be married
she thinks nothing of paying seven or eight hundred francs for a necklace.
[Illustration: A GREEK PEASANT IN MEDIÆVAL DAYS.]
Not only are the Croatian women noted for their unusual beauty of face
and form, they are equally famous for their industry, and the national
costume is a marvel of needlework. The example illustrated on page 124
shows embroidery playing its part on the sleeves, the full skirt, and the
bodice. The chemisette is of white lawn, and jewels are around the neck,
and flowers wreathe the head over a lawn cap which conceals the hair.
The sketch of the Croatian man on page 125 shows him in a hat of black
felt, a coat of white bordered with blue, and a cape lined with red,
edged with a pattern formed by an application of red cloth.
A more elaborate edition of this dress permits a gold fringe on the low
crown of the hat, and a red fringe on a deep leather pouch which is held
on the left hip by a leather strap.
[Illustration: A GREEK PEASANT.]
[Illustration: A GREEK PEASANT WOMAN.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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