Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
[Illustration: A GREEK BRIGAND.]
[Illustration: A GREEK PRIEST.]
Departing from the classical severity of palla and peplum, the dress of
modern Greece has nothing in common with that of a people who scaled
the heights of immortality in the simplest of garbs. Peasant women wear
spangled petticoats of blue or pink silk, a long-waisted costume of
purple velvet embroidered in gold, high-heeled shoes which display silver
buckles, and a kerchief draped on the plaited hair.
The men resemble the typical stage brigand, in a double-breasted
waistcoat of blue or maroon velvet edged with gold lace, a row of gold or
silver buttons running from either shoulder to meet at the waist, which
is encircled by a brilliantly coloured sash.
A distinguishing note is given by the thoraki, a characteristic garment
of blue cotton, suggesting in form a stiff sack wider at the bottom
than the top, with holes at the corners for the legs to pass through.
A substitute for this is a white petticoat to the knees, and other
accessories are white stockings and black shoes with large silver buckles.
Some resemblance to the costume of ancient Greece may be traced in the
dress of the shepherds, who wear cloaks of sheep's wool or goat's hair,
with bare feet encased in sandals of untanned leather strapped across
the instep and up the lower portion of the leg. Thus attired, might
the Pyrrhian have climbed those mountains which looked on Marathon, as
Marathon looked on the sea.
CHAPTER XII
OF SOME FOREIGN PEASANTS (_continued_)
In Russia the convention of dress may not serve as an index to the mind
of the country, for the peasant is allowed to share with the prince a
fancy for gold, coloured embroidery, and silk and jewels, and it has not
yet become necessary for the Duma to include an advocate in the cause of
costume.
The history of Russia is inscribed upon the dress of its people.
Travelling from north to south and from east to west, the costumes of
the peasantry everywhere bear the impress of the political vicissitudes
through which the particular locality has passed. This, coupled with the
fact that no empire in the world is made up of such an agglomeration of
vastly different races, accounts for the immense diversity of styles.
To gain some idea of the ingredients which go to make up the sartorial
_pot-pourri_, one has but to pay a visit to the great annual fair
at Nijni Novgorod. There Cossack rubs shoulders with Finn, Jew with
Laplander, Tartar with Slav, Persian, Siberian, Bulgarian, and Circassian
adding to the interest of the scene and the Babel of tongues. As
everything Russian leads up to the one forbidden, and therefore burning,
question, politics, it is impossible even to treat of the national
costume without touching lightly upon those crises which determined the
ultimate cut of a sleeve or the shape of a head-dress.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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