Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
Although palpably designed for use rather than ornament, the dress of the
women of Kherson is far from being wholly unattractive. A white kerchief,
drawn over the head, falls in points on the shoulders, concealing the
hair, but leaving the ears exposed to show dangling ear-rings. The
chemisette of thick white cotton introduces a touch of colour at the
wrists of the wide sleeves, and the loose sleeveless bodice reveals a
heart-shaped opening in front, and is confined by a striped scarf wound
about the waist and held by a leather belt fastened with an imposing
silver clasp. The narrow fringed apron is of carpet material over a plain
skirt cut short above the ankles to reveal a gaily-embroidered petticoat.
The ceremonial costume of the women of Simbirsk is very peculiar. High
and square, the hat is of velvet, with a close brim composed of a broad
hand of white sheep's wool drawn down over the brows, giving the wearer
a slightly lowering expression. A shower of gilt coins jangles in the
ears, and the long-sleeved white tunic fits tightly up to the throat
and ceases abruptly at the knees, where it is met by leggings of white
felt cross-gartered the entire distance, the garters doing double duty,
as they serve as supports for the low shoes. The most extraordinary
and characteristic feature of the entire toilet is a large square
breast-plate of white metal covered with pieces of money and copper
discs, which combine the roles of amulets and ornaments. This odd and
warrior-like decoration is divided across the centre, and so forms two
separate portions, the upper being so arranged that it laps over the
under, when rendered necessary by the movements of the body. In addition,
a small silver cross is worn suspended from a ribbon passed round the
neck.
Specially interesting by reason of the fact that Nijni Novgorod is the
scene of the most important fair in the world, the dress of the women of
the district consists of a fringed and embroidered shawl which envelops
the head and shoulders and is pinned under the chin. As is only to be
expected, fur plays a part in the trimming. The wide jacket reaches to
the waist, and reveals fur cuffs and an edging of fur about the bottom
and up the fronts. Not quite ankle length, the brocade skirt is bordered
with fringe, the plain or brocaded under-skirt descending to the ground.
Both skirts are immensely wide, and suggest the presence of a hooped
petticoat. The shawl and outer jacket removed, there are attractive
revelations of a sleeveless corsage of brocade and a white chemisette
conspicuous for sleeves that puff with exaggeration at the shoulder and
again below the elbow, finally coming in tightly at the wrist and ending
in frills. The jewellery, as is usual in Russia, is of a ponderous type,
and is most popular in the form of chains, necklaces, and finger-and
ear-rings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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