Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
The women of the people still plaster their faces crudely with white and
red cosmetics: a mode once in favour with the upper classes, but now
condemned as distinctly bad form and savouring of barbarity.
I cannot leave Russia without some reference to the Jews, who write now
as ever an important chapter in their history.
No Jew can justly be counted a peasant, since no member of the race is
allowed to be a land-owner, his utmost privilege permitting him to be a
tenant farmer. The distinctive garment remains what it has been through
many centuries--the gaberdine; but some concession is made to modern
opinion by the black peaked cap, which, in place of the old skull-cap, is
worn in the streets by the less prejudiced.
The gaberdine buttons down the front to the waist, hangs to the ankles,
and is usually now made of black cloth, silk, or moiré, held at the waist
by a folded belt. It is finished at the neck by a soft turn-down collar
attached to an under-shirt, and it conceals from view loose trousers
and high boots; in winter it is lined with fur. The chin is unshaven,
and a pendent curl hangs from either temple; and reverence for the old
traditions upholds the custom that on the Fast or Atonement day of the
Jews, the patriarch of the family shall attend the synagogue in his
shroud, and that the praying-shawl or _taleth_ of white, with a border of
blue, be worn every day at devotions.
The Jewish women of the poorer class wear a white kerchief over the head,
crossed on the bust of a black sateen jacket, which buttons on the slant
and reaches below the hips. The short skirt beneath is of a vivid tone of
red, covered by a white apron, and the most vital difference between the
Jew and the other races in Russia is the significant absence of the cross.
The working dress of the Jew consists of a pair of baggy trousers
disappearing into top-boots, and a white shirt drawn into the waist
by a leather belt, surmounted by a round cloth cap, for no religious
Jew ever uncovers his head. The hair would seem to have some special
importance, for no Jewish woman who marries is allowed to retain her
tresses; they are cropped or shaved close to the head, which is covered
by a black satin cap, down the centre of which a white thread is sewn in
imitation of a parting. This sacrifice is demanded of all who would enjoy
matrimony; and the great question as to whether the cause is worthy has
not yet been aired in any halfpenny daily issued at St. Petersburg.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account