Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
Considerable attention is devoted to the hair. In Pekin girls
arrange theirs in tufts on the temples, while the back hangs down in
multitudinous plaits. As soon as they become engaged they turn it up and
thrust a silver pin, a foot in length, through the thick tresses. This
pin, by the way, is as significant of betrothal as is the ring in Europe.
On her wedding day the bride's hair is shaven in front, to heighten the
forehead, and the remainder braided and coiled about a stiff black silk
frame which rests on the nape of the neck. This done, flowers, feathers,
glass ornaments, or, for the rich, jewellery set with uncut stones, are
added. A popular style on ordinary occasions is to twist the hair into
outstanding bunches at either ear and decorate the excrescences with
flowers.
A small foot is highly esteemed as a beauty, and causes its possessor
to be ardently sought after in marriage. The practice, however, of
mutilating the feet in order to achieve the desired result is limited
to one daughter out of five in each family, while the women of Tartary
disdain the notion altogether. The diminutive foot, erroneously held to
be typical of all Chinese ladies of rank, is encased in a silk or cotton
slipper raised on a thick, inclined sole. Those who are incapable of
getting into a shoe compared with which Cinderella's glass slipper would
appear gigantic, have recourse to the stratagem of wearing a similar
model fitted with a high heel set in the middle of the sole. Perched on
such an uncertain support, they walk with the mincing steps and swaying
gait which, for them, constitute the acme of grace, but which, in
barbarian eyes, suggest nothing more alluring than an imminent danger of
toppling over.
Abnormally long finger-nails are likewise held to enhance the natural
charms of lovely woman, and the use of cosmetics is freely indulged
in. A fan is always carried, and frequently a pipe, conspicuous for a
diminutive bowl and long slender stem.
As representing officialdom, the Mandarins, or Kwans, as they are called
in their own country, are quite the most important body of men in the
Celestial Empire. They are divided into nine classes, each of which is
subdivided into two. A glance at the button on the hat is sufficient to
determine the rank of the wearer.
The significance attached to this particular decoration is as follows:--
Class. Degree.
Red { A ruby or other precious stone 1st 1st
{ Coral 1st 2nd
{ A red jewel of inferior quality 2nd 1st
{ Coral carved in the form of a flower 2nd 2nd
Blue { A light-blue precious stone 3rd 1st
{ The same only smaller 3rd 2nd
{ A dark-blue precious stone 4th 1st
{ The same only smaller 4th 2nd
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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