Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
White { Crystal 5th 1st
{ The same only smaller 5th 2nd
{ A white precious stone 6th 1st
{ The same only smaller 6th 2nd
Gold { Gold 7th 1st
{ Smaller 7th 2nd
{ Smaller 8th 1st
{ Smaller 8th 2nd
The last class of all is similarly represented by a gold button. The
button employed on ceremonial occasions differs from that worn every day,
in that it is round, whereas the latter is oblong.
Another distinctive feature of a Mandarin's dress is the pectoral--a
small piece of material attached to the breast. In the case of civil
dignitaries it is embroidered with birds, while in that of military
authorities it displays quadrupeds.
[Illustration: A CHINESE ACTOR.]
The official costume consists of a long, loose gown which opens up the
centre and is gorgeously embroidered with dragons or winged serpents. The
claws further testify to the rank of the wearer, those dragons possessing
three or four being the exclusive privilege of members of the first four
classes, who are also entitled to wear peacock's feathers at the back of
their hats, and chains of coral, the red parasol being another of their
prerogatives. Over the under-robe is worn an ample coat of plain silk
extending below the knees. This has wide sleeves, which allow a view of
tight under-sleeves pertaining to the embroidered robe, and drawn down
to cover the hands, and shaped at the ends in the form of a horseshoe.
About the waist is a deep embroidered band, that serves as pocket in case
of need, while a square, embroidered collar rests on the shoulders and
tapers up to vanishing point at the throat in front. The hair hangs in
a tightly-plaited pigtail, lengthened by the addition of false tresses,
and the characteristic hat boasts a brim of satin, velvet, or fur, shaped
like a saucer, its red crown surmounted by the all-important button. The
shoes are those which a man of position must always wear in public.
Sabot-shaped, with thick soles, they are covered in silk, satin, or
cotton, and there is no difference between the right and left foot. A
coveted military distinction is a fox's tail arranged at the back of the
hat. The most signal mark of Imperial favour, however, is permission to
wear a yellow coat.
[Illustration: A CHINESE PEASANT.]
In his everyday attire the Mandarin observes none of these elaborate
formulæ. He dons a loose robe of silk to the ankles, an umbrella-shaped
hat, and heel-less shoes with pointed toes that curve slightly upwards,
contrived from rattan plaited in such a manner as to allow freely of
ventilation. In his right hand he carries a fan and in his left a checked
handkerchief of imposing dimensions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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