Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
From the age of seven the son of a Samourai appeared in public wearing
the two swords distinctive of his rank. They were small, of course, as
appropriate to his size and strength, but were otherwise perfect in every
detail.
Despite rigorously-observed social divisions, all classes wore the same
outer garment, the difference being in the materials employed. Until
the influx of Europeans made its levelling influence felt, the use of
silk by any but the nobility was strictly prohibited. The article of
attire common to both sexes of the community was the kimono, a loose,
flowing wrap which opened down the centre and crossed over at the breast,
where on men it was held in place by a narrow belt, while women wore a
wide sash neatly folded and tied in an elaborate bow behind. Although
the sleeves were immensely wide and hung in deep points, only a small
opening was left for the hand to pass through, the remainder being joined
together to serve as pocket. Etiquette exacting that what a guest could
not eat he should take home, the superfluous dainties were carefully
enveloped in paper and deposited in the roomy sleeves.
Handkerchiefs were of tissue paper, and were carried in the belt; while
no Japanese, of either sex or any rank, from the Mikado downwards, would
consent to even a momentary separation from his or her fan.
Masculine costume consisted of tight trousers to the calf and the loose,
round shirts, which were fashioned from white material for the people
and from greyish-blue silk for the nobility; and labourers displayed on
theirs the insignia of their special craft or of the corporation to which
they belonged. Common to all classes were high wooden clogs and sandals
of plaited straw. Peculiar to the aristocracy and certain regiments,
notably the archers, were short trousers of brilliantly-coloured silk,
cut so immensely wide as to suggest the petticoats of a ballet girl. On
ceremonious occasions the feet and legs were left bare. Stockings were
cut out of cotton, or stuff, neatly seamed up the back, and were made
with a division at the great toe for the thong of the sandal. On the
whole, subdued shades and dark colours predominated, the Japanese being
distinguished by the quiet elegance of their taste.
Typical of the headgear affected by the lower classes in warm weather
was a huge straw hat in the form of a dish-cover. Another characteristic
example, likewise of straw, resembled a round, deep-edged tray, the
brim turned downwards, and the whole was held in place by means of a
chin-strap.
Women, as a rule, left the head uncovered, preferring to rely for
protection upon flat umbrellas made of paper, cotton, or silk. They drew
their hair off the forehead, dressing it in neat puffs or coils and
decorating it with large, ornamental pins, flowers, and ribbons, but
neither ear-rings nor any other articles of jewellery were worn.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account