Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
The ordinary dress of men of the middle classes comprises a short shirt
cut low at the throat, drawers, socks of material made with a single seam
up the back, a long embroidered coat, and a shorter jacket of some plain
fabric, held by a broad waist-belt, embroidered in colours and fastened
by a jade ornament.
The headgear differs according to the season. In summer a conical-shaped
straw hat is chosen, and in winter small hats obtain either of hard felt
with stiff, upturned brims or of felt soft and pliable.
The costume of the lower orders is simplicity itself. A cotton shirt,
trousers, and a loose sleeveless coat exhaust the list. A narrow strip of
material is tied round the waist in order to prevent the clothing getting
in the worker's way, and the naked feet are thrust into low sandals.
Occasionally the ubiquitous pigtail is turned up and pinned in a coil
about the head, but this liberty is never permitted in the presence
of a superior. As a matter of fact, the etiquette of dress is rigidly
observed throughout China. No gentleman would dream of either paying or
receiving a visit without shoes on his feet, a fan in his hand, and a
wide, pointed hat, rather suggestive of a tent, on his head. How true it
is that manners, like morals, are mere matters of geography!
In contrast to the love of display characteristic of their Chinese
neighbours, the Japanese are conspicuous for extreme simplicity. This
national trait finds expression in their dress. Here I pause to consider
whether, as a chronicler of costume, I should allude to the Japanese in
the present or past tense? I regretfully incline to the latter view,
for there is little doubt that the smoke of factory chimneys, built on
European lines and fed with Cardiff coal, is rapidly blurring local
colour. Already the quaint little men have adopted the outward and
visible sign of inward civilisation in the form of a frock coat and top
hat. Their women-folk have followed their example and discarded the
picturesque for the prosaic, exchanging the fashions transmitted by
their ancestresses for those telegraphed from Paris. Will the Geishas do
likewise, and is another decade destined to see them in caps and aprons,
and will--Imagination fails me, and I revert to the glorious days of
the Daimios and Samourais--days for which, I am firmly convinced, every
frock-coated Japanese sighs as ardently as I do.
In old Japan social distinctions were drawn for all time, and there
was no crossing the line of demarcation. Society was divided into nine
grades. The princes, or Daimios, the nobles, or Samourai, the priests,
and the military composed the first four. These were entitled to carry
two swords, while the intellectual class, which numbered doctors in its
ranks, was allowed one. The remainder, including lawyers, were debarred
the privilege of bearing arms.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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