Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
A prince of the Mogul dynasty, who is depicted in a dress typical of
his time and rank, wears long, tightly-fitting pyjamas of striped red
and gold material, very much rucked at the calf and terminating at the
ankle. His feet are encased in embroidered slippers, which leave the
heel bare, the pointed toes curling upwards. The over-dress reaches to
below the knee, and is of transparent white tissue, the skirt pleated
and held at the waist by a sash, worked in gold, scarlet, and black,
knotted in front and with fringed ends falling in unequal lengths. A
jewel-hilted dagger is worn at the left side, and a narrow scarf, in
white and gold, crosses the breast, passing under the right arm and
over the left shoulder, where one end hangs down behind and the other
before. The closely-fitting sleeves are rucked, and bracelets are drawn
over them at the wrist and above the elbow, while several rows of pearls
appear at the neck. The small white turban is arranged in a point on the
forehead and encircled by a broad gold band and a string of pearls, the
latter raised in front by an enormous emerald, a superb aigrette waving
above an ornament glittering with diamonds and other precious stones; and
on state occasions a large sword, sheathed in crimson velvet, and with
a cross-shaped hilt studded with jewels, was carried, another mark of
Imperial dignity being the umbrella which overspread the throne.
The dress of high-born ladies was very similar to that of the men, for
it, too, consisted of rucked trousers, of brilliantly-coloured silk,
decorated with embroidery and confined at the feet with plain gold
bangles or jewelled anklets. The pointed slippers curved up at the toes
and left the heels exposed, and the pleated robe of transparent muslin
terminated at the calf. From the waist in front a width of gold tissue,
fringed and worked in various bright shades, hung apron-like, while the
bust was supported by a corselet contrived from polished wood so light
and so supple as in nowise to interfere with the lithe movements of the
body. The arms were bare, excepting for bracelets at the wrists and above
the elbow, and the head and upper portion of the figure were enveloped
in the graceful folds of a sari, or immense veil of diaphanous texture
bordered with gold and patterned in vivid colours. The hair was parted,
and fell in plaits behind, a jewelled ornament being worn in the centre
of the forehead; while a pearl was fastened into one nostril, and the
nails were stained vermilion.
[Illustration: AN OLD INDIAN FESTIVAL DRESS.]
Court dignitaries are represented in long, loose garments coming
below the knees and cut low at the throat to reveal a vest of fine
white material, but otherwise identical in design with the ordinary
dressing-gown of a man of to-day. The waist was encircled by a broad
band of embroidery, and the trousers completely encased the feet. On the
head was the inevitable turban, round in shape and wide of brim.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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