Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
If the outdoor dress of Persian women be any criterion, their husbands
must be the most jealous in the world, for not one of the charms
accredited to frail femininity is allowed to transpire. The veil and
all-enveloping mantle maintain a profound reserve, so that whether the
wearer be old or young, slender or stout, attractive or repulsive,
remains for ever an impenetrable mystery. Before quitting the seclusion
of the Andaran, the Persian woman assumes an effective disguise. First
she draws on a pair of dark green or grey trousers, one leg at a time,
for there is no connection between the two, and these are fastened at
the waist by a belt. Their shape is peculiar; for, baggy to the knees,
they fit closely at the calf and encase the foot after the manner of a
stocking. Over these is worn an ample mantle of black silk, cotton, or
muslin, covering the head and shrouding the entire figure, the ends drawn
up at the bust and held by strings, which are crossed and tied round the
neck. A thick white veil--an essential item from the age of nine--falls
from the forehead to the waist in front, and is pinned at the back of the
head to keep it in place, a narrow insertion of net appearing at the
eyes, to allow sight to the wearer.
The indoor dress of a Persian lady consists of a full skirt to the
ankles, fashioned from cloth of gold, velvet, or some other costly
fabric, trimmed with beautiful embroidery. A loose jacket of soft white
muslin, decorated with a peculiar kind of lace, forms a vest in front
beneath an open embroidered jacket of a shade contrasting with that
of the skirt. This jacket reaches to the waist, and has long sleeves
conspicuous for turned-back cuffs. A cashmere shawl is draped on the
shoulders, and a white veil is arranged kerchief-wise on the head and
fastened under the chin with a jewelled brooch, leaving only the oval
of the face visible. The brows are encircled by a golden fillet, from
the centre of which depends a jewel, while the hair is parted and hangs
down behind in three or more plaits, their ends tied with gay ribbons or
weighted with pearls or silk tassels.
A variation of this style is noted in the dress of the ladies of
Trebizond, their cashmere shawl being smaller and arranged over the skirt
in such a way that a point falls down behind. The snowy muslin chemisette
is cut low at the throat, and the embroidered coat shows a heart-shaped
opening fastening only at the waist with two buttons; and on the head is
a small round cap.
Female servants are generally barefooted, their full skirts terminating
midway to the ankles, and pulled low down on the hips, so that the short
white under-jacket and little coat of coloured material terminating at
the waist, expose the centre of the body to view.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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