Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
The official classes have discarded the turban in favour of the fez,
a closely-fitting cap some six inches in height, contrived from black
cloth or astrakhan. These are plain, with the exception of the jewelled
fez peculiar to the Shah, and of the caps of certain high military
authorities, which bear a distinctive badge of a gold lion and sun
affixed above the forehead, a field-marshal wearing two lions surmounted
by a crown. The turbans of the priests are large and round, those
characteristic of the Seyyids, the direct descendants of Ali, being in
a bright shade of green. As a rule, the official classes wear trousers
and black frock coats that differ from those customary in Europe only
in that they are arranged in numerous pleats, which, commencing at the
hips, continue round the back. Infinitely more characteristic is the
costume affected by merchants, this section of the community exhibiting a
partiality for lightish blue cloth of native manufacture. The long coat,
or ghaba, is loose and flowing. Double-breasted, it laps over and fastens
with two buttons, while about the waist a shawl is wound several times,
knotted, and the ends tucked out of sight. The overcoat, or aba, is of
rough brown material, open in front, and the wide sleeves terminate at
the elbow. A towering fez or a rolled turban is worn, according to the
taste of the wearer.
The priests, or Mullahs, affect much the same style of garb; and, as
I write, one whom I knew rises up before me. His was a most imposing
personality. Of middle height, he seemed much taller by reason of his
large white turban and ample robe of dark blue that flowed to his ankles,
revealing heel-less shoes of bright yellow leather. Round in shape, his
head was shaven, and his beard was trimmed to a point and stained with
henna. About his waist a white shawl was wrapped six times, and into it
was tucked a big striped cotton handkerchief. In his hand he carried a
rosary composed of a hundred clay beads, and, when he walked, the dignity
of his demeanour was further enhanced by a long white mantle which he
wore flung over his right shoulder.
Persians eschew gaudy colours and striking contrasts in dress, preferring
quiet shades and harmonious combinations; dull reds, dim blues, and
sombre greens being favourite tints. The diplomatic uniform is black, the
front of the tight coat one blaze of gold embroidery; and the official
sword is suspended from a narrow belt.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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