Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
The outdoor dress of ladies in those days was a lengthy mantle of dark
material, which boasted long sleeves and a deep sailor collar of red,
blue, or green satin; essential accessories being the two white veils
and top boots of yellow morocco. Heavy and sumptuous, the gown worn at
home consisted of baggy trousers of thin texture drawn in tightly at the
ankles, supplemented by a long sleeved chemisette of white muslin trimmed
with a peculiar kind of lace. This was met at the bust by the dress
proper, a trailing robe of rich material encircled by an embroidered
belt fastened by a jewelled clasp and drawn down very low in front. The
sleeveless velvet mantle was edged with velvet and fell to the ground,
and on the head was a high turban of embroidered muslin surrounded by a
gold fillet set with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. The hair was cut in
a straight fringe across the forehead, and arranged in bands over the
ears.
Turkish women have always displayed a great fondness for jewellery, and
modern etiquette renders a diamond tiara incumbent upon the bride of any
social standing whatsoever.
Much of the fascination of the desert, its mystery and its appeal to
the imagination, is embodied in the Arab. The eye travels over the tall
figure, straight as a palm tree, draped in the long folds of the burnous,
with the same baffled sense of inquiry, the same subdued excitement
and expectation with which it looks across the arid sand stretching out
to the horizon and beyond. What restless fever consumes this statuesque
figure, impelling him ever to be on the move? Where does his quest lead
amid the dunes and burning sand, and what is the power that keeps him
eternally a wanderer in that silent land? Vaguely one realises the subtle
affinity between the two--the nameless spell which the desert casts over
her sons.
The dress of the Arab, picturesque though it is, would seem to have
been expressly designed with a view to affording the utmost possible
protection to the head. The cachi, a little felt cap, red, brown, or
white, and surmounted by a silk tassel in a contrasting shade, is common
to all. Two, and frequently three, are worn, one above the other, the
topmost being invariably red. Concealing the cachi is the haïk, an ample
white drapery drawn low on the forehead and falling curtain-wise about
the face. It is held in place by one or more tightly-fitting rings
composed of camel's or goat's hair, pressed firmly down on the head, and
is of such liberal dimensions as to envelop the entire figure above a
shirt contrived from fine white wool. Over all is flung the burnous, a
voluminous mantle of plain or striped material which can be arranged in a
variety of ways. Sometimes it is tied at the throat with strings tipped
with tassels, and at others it is wrapped about the body in classic folds
with one end flung over the left shoulder. Sandals are worn on the bare
feet, and the beard is long and pointed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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