Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
In Turkey, as elsewhere, international intercourse has gradually led
to the disappearance of those salient features which make for the
characteristic in dress. In Constantinople the official classes wear the
conventional garb of Western Europe, with the one noteworthy exception
of the fez, a red cloth cap surmounted by a black silk tassel. French
fashions are permitted in the privacy of the harem, but etiquette decrees
that the women, before they go out, shall exchange these for a simple
toilet of nun-like severity; and the ladies of the Sultan's household,
who are never seen in public unless in a carriage or boat, don an
all-enveloping mantle of black silk in winter and of some light shade
in summer; and over this two white veils are worn. The first covers the
face as far as the bridge of the nose, and the second is drawn across the
brows, shrouding the head and leaving only the eyes visible. But in truth
these yashmaks are so transparent that they serve to enhance rather
than conceal the charms, natural and artificial, of the wearer. Through
the shimmering white drapery the flower-decked hair is clearly seen, and
romantic in the extreme is the effect of a small boat with three rowers,
and a veiled figure under a fluttering lace parasol, gliding swiftly over
the sun-kissed waters of the Bosphorus.
The walking dress in vogue in modern Constantinople is even plainer.
It consists of a black silk skirt and a silk cape to the waist, the
cape being provided with an additional piece to cover the head, and an
essential complement is a short veil of close black net. In summer black
is exchanged for light colours, but the style remains the same.
The priests, with true ecclesiastical fidelity to tradition, have
remained constant to the old-world style of dressing; and to this day
they cut picturesque figures in a red fez encircled by a narrow white
turban, loose trousers kept in place by a cashmere shawl, dark yellow
in colour and of great beauty of design, and a black caftan, a garment
almost identical with that of the cassock worn by the clergy of the
Church of England.
Another survival which is familiar to the casual visitor to
Constantinople is the dress of certain labourers, consisting of baggy
pantaloons to the knee or a little beyond, red shoes, a long sleeved
cotton shirt, and a short, sleeveless jacket of blue or black material,
a red fez, and a coloured shawl about the waist.
Formerly fur trimmings denoted great opulence and luxury, and the skins
most favoured were ermine, sable, marten, white fox, and squirrel, which
were changed according to a prescribed formula. The date for one to be
discarded and another substituted was fixed by the Sultan, who usually
elected to appear in new clothes on a Friday, when attending mosque. The
Grand Vizier was officially notified of the intended change, whereupon
he immediately sent word to the entire Court, who hastened to follow the
sovereign's example.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account