=Cross-border=--A heading to a piece of cloth or handkerchief, either formed by coloured or other weft, or by a change in the pattern. =Cumber Board=--The perforated frame for the guidance of the harness in the jacquard or some dobby shedding motions. =Cutting=--The severance of the pile warp or pile weft in a fabric which requires the slitting of some filament, so as to produce a nap, formed by short threads presenting their section on the face of the cloth. =Cut=--A length of warp required to weave a piece of cloth; also the piece when woven. =Deliquescent=--A substance which tends to liquefy in the air--thus, chloride of magnesium tends to retain dampness and cause a fabric in which it is present to become moist. =Dent=--A space between the wires of a reed, otherwise _split_. =Draft=--A plan showing the order in which the ends are drawn through the healds (_see_ page 94). =Elongated Twills=--Twilled cloth, in which the wale extends a greater distance than usual before reaching the other side of the fabric, caused by weaving two or more picks before altering the risen ends forming the wale. These twills do not run at an angle of 45 degrees. =End=--The technical name for a thread. =Entering Draft=--The system of drawing the warp through the healds (_see_ Draft). =Fell (of Cloth)=--The edge of the fabric (in the loom) which has most recently been woven. =Filling=--_Am. for_ weft. =Fixing=--_Am. for_ tackling. =Flue=--One lap of the folded cloth. =Flushing=--Bringing the warp or weft to the surface of the cloth without interweaving. =Fly-reed=--_Sc. for_ loose reed. =Gaws=--_Sc. for_ goal. =Gears=--_Sc. for_ healds. =Goal=--A gap caused in a piece by the cloth being drawn forward without the weft interweaving, especially when used to mark the end of a piece. =Grey=--Yarn or cloth in an undyed or unbleached state. =Grist=--Synonymous with counts (_Sc._). =Ground=--That portion of a fabric, usually of a simple weave, which serves as a base on which to display a figure. =Hank=--A measurement of yarn. In cotton, 840 yards. =Harness=--The arrangement of leashes in a jacquard. (_Am. for_ a heald.) =Heald=--The arrangement of top and bottom staves, carrying the leashes with eyes for use in stave work.--_Sc._, heddle; _Am._, harness. =Lag=--A bar of the lattice used in dobby work. =Lathe= (_South Lancashire_)--Synonymous with slay. =Lay=--_Am._ and _Sc. for_ slay. =Leaf=--A heald or a plate of the shedding tappet--_e.g._, three-leaf twill = three-stave twill. =Lingo=--The weight below the leashes in the jacquard. =L.S.=--Abbreviation of “long stick.” =Mail-eye=--The aperture in the harness for the reception of the thread. =Manufacturing=--(_Vide_ Chapter I.).