In the process of weaving it is necessary to hold the warp somewhat
tightly, each portion at the same tension, and to obtain this condition
the cloth is pulled forward by the taking-up roller as it is woven; but
the warp is held back by the friction of weighted chains or ropes on
the collars of the beam. The warp passes upwards from the beam, over
the back rest, and thence to the back of the healds; between the back
rest and healds are the lease rods--a large one with a smaller rod
nearer the healds. By means of these rods the warp is separated into
equal portions, two ends passing alternately over or under the thick
rod; those passing over the thick one also run under the thin rod. The
rule commonly observed for four healds is to have the ends passing the
first and the third heald over the thin rod, and those drawn through
the second and fourth over the thick rod, and consequently under the
thin one. The first heald is the one nearest the front of the loom; the
draft is 1, 3, 2, 4, and applies to plain cloth, although the first and
second healds are worked as one, and the third and fourth together.
Respecting the two ends which pass together at the lease rods, the
one through the front heald is to the left of the one through the
third heald; whilst with the other couples, the end through the more
forward heald is to the left of the other. The weaver, bearing these
rules in mind, can thus find the place of any broken end. The healds
are suspended on each side of the heald roller A by means of straps
and cords, which are shown. The portion of the heald roller supporting
the back healds is larger than for the front ones; this is to make the
former when lifted make the shed at the same angle as the front healds.
Below are seen the crank shaft B, and the tappet shaft C, driven from
it at exactly half the speed. The latter shaft bears the picking plates
H and shedding tappets K. The slay, supported by the slay-sword[2] D
on the rocking shaft is shown also. It carries the reed at E, held in
position by the slay-cap F. The back rest at G, over which the warp
passes, and the weight levers and driving pulleys are also noticeable
parts. The cloth is woven pick by pick, and the whole action of the
loom may be comprised in repetitions of the operations contingent on
putting in one pick. Supposing the warp to be in position and the whole
machine in weaving order, the first movement is to open the warp into
two parts, and is called shedding; the second is to pass the shuttle
through the opening thus made, called picking; and thirdly, to beat up
the weft close to the pick last put in--technically, to the fell of
the cloth. In addition to these, auxiliary movements are taking place
for winding on the woven cloth, keeping it distended, and checking the
motion of the loom in case of accident.
[2] In addition to the references given in the text, each article is
shown on Plate V.
SUNDRY FITTINGS FOR LOOM.--FIG. 21.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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