The shirtings here mentioned must not be confused with the home trade
shirtings--goods in which only the finest yarns are used, free from
any of the objectionable filling referred to above. To this class
belong long-cloths, mediums, Wigans (plain and twill), double warps and
twills. Export long-cloths are plain goods, shirting style, 36 yards
long, generally 36 inches wide, 12 square, medium size.
Another group of sized cloths, next in importance to the shirtings,
consists of the T-cloths, Mexicans, domestics, and madapollams.
T-cloths are always 24 yards in length, of coarse yarns, heavily sized,
from 28 to 32 inches wide, 12 × 10 to 16 × 16,[4] 4lb. and 6lb. in
weight. The name is derived from the mark [T] of the first exporters.
Exported to India, China, Japan, South America, Roumania and Servia.
[4] In this Chapter, where reed and pick is given, it must be
understood as referring to a quarter of an inch, unless otherwise
specified. Thus--12 × 10 means 12 ends and 10 picks in a quarter of an
inch, or 48 ends and 40 picks per inch.
Domestics are from 28 to 39 inches, 60, 72, 80, or 96 yards. Warp,
18/24’s; weft, 16/40’s; and from 14 to 16 reed and pick; medium to
heavy size. Exported to South America, Italy, Levant, Turkey, Egypt. A
somewhat better class is made and used extensively by the home trade.
Mexicans are of better quality than the foregoing, and are always above
17 × 17 reed and pick, yarns, twist, coarse; weft, medium; medium size;
28 to 32 inches in width. Exported to South and Central America.
Madapollams are lighter in reed and pick than the foregoing, being
about 11 and 12 square; width, 28 to 32 inches, and similar in
length to the T-cloths and Mexicans; sized medium. Exported to India
principally, also to Mediterranean States and to South America.
Dyeing and printing cloths form an important department.
Under the first heading Turkey reds are prominent. These, like
printers, are cloths of good quality. Shirting counts and widths, but
about twice the length; pure size. Exported to Japan, China, India.
Printers, Burnley makes, sometimes dubbed Burnley lumps, are 32 inches,
116 yards, 16 × 16, 32’s/50’s yarn. Quality important, yarns good,
lightly sized, warps even and hard-twisted, weft free from unevenness,
snarls, etc.
Glossop printers, 36 inches, 19 × 22; 50 yards, 11-3/4lb.
These are not the only descriptions of printers, coarse cloth of
varied dimensions being required, which, when stamped with patterns of
every conceivable style, are exported to India, Persia, Italy, Brazil,
Levant, Java and Japan.
In light goods, tanjibs, jacconetts, mulls and cambrics may be classed
together.
Tanjibs are the coarsest; 30 to 50 inches wide, 38 yards long, 12
square, 32’s/40’s; lightly sized.
Jacconetts and nainsooks are finer; 39 to 44 inches, 14 × 14 to 16 ×
16, 32’s/50’s, about 20 yards long.
Mulls are somewhat similar in style; 39 to 50 inches wide, 20 yards, 16
× 16 to 20 × 20, from 60’s to 100’s yarn; pure size.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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