In packing, the pieces are arranged in bales and compressed to about
half their bulk when loose. The layer of protective material round the
bales consists of white paper, brown paper, followed on the outside
by black oiled sheets and pack sheeting. Occasionally, linen sheets
are introduced between the inner and the outer layers as an additional
protection against stain or damage. The bales are hooped in the press.
VARIETIES OF COTTON CLOTH.
The principal makes of cotton cloth are given below, together with
remarks concerning export, sizing, etc., and at the end a list of the
standard sizes is attached. The first group of cloths includes the
shirtings, dhooties, and long-cloths:--
Shirtings are heavily-sized goods, 125 per cent. not being unusual. The
widths vary from 38 to 50 inches, length about 37-1/2 yards long-stick.
Reed and pick from 12 square to 19 × 18. These goods are made to
weight--thus, a 39-inch 16 × 15 weighs 8-1/4lb.; a 45-inch, 9lb.; a
50-inch 10lb. Various kinds are made, some medium-sized. What is known
as Indian shirting is the heavy-sized class.
Shirtings are exported to India, China, Japan, Turkey, Italy, Levant. A
good class is made, bleached, and exported to Egypt, Japan, India, and
China, as white shirtings.
Dhooties are shirtings ornamented by stripes of grey or coloured yarn,
and in suitable lengths for Hindoo loin cloths. The stripes are not
of very varied character in grey dhooties, being simply tape edges
formed by cramping grey or bleached yarn at the selvage. In coloured
dhooties, stripes of vari-coloured warps are introduced about an inch
from the edge of the cloth, and varying from half an inch in width to 4
inches, sometimes being introduced at intervals all across the piece.
In dobby-dhooties these stripes are woven in figures.
A range of dhooties includes all widths from 22 to 50 inches, and the
length of scarf varying from 2 yards in the smaller size to 5 yards
in the larger. A scarf is the distance between the headings, which in
these goods are very extensive, sometimes reaching to 20 inches in
length at the juncture of the two scarves.
A Range = 22 inches and 23 inches = 2-yard scarf.
24 " " 25 " = 2-1/2 " "
26 " " 28 " = 3 " "
29 " " 32 " = 3-1/2 " "
35 inches ... ... ... = 4 " "
The higher widths being variously 4-1/2 or 5 yards.
Dhooties are made up in about 40-yard lengths--thus, a piece 44 inches
wide would contain 4 double scarves. The yarns employed vary similarly
to shirtings, from 30/40’s warp, 36/60’s wefts.
The dress of a male Hindoo consists of a dhootie containing 4 square
yards, a doputta of 8 square yards, and a turban of 12 square yards;
whilst in addition the Hindoo woman wears sarrie, a similar cloth
to the dhootie. India is the recipient of the dhooties in greatest
quantity. Sarongs go to Java, patadiongs to the Phillipines.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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