5 5 4 4 4 4 3 3 3 2 2 1 twelve ends are drawn on five healds, one end on the 1st heald, two on the 2nd, three on the 3rd, four on the 4th, and two on the 5th. Four different degrees of fineness are required in the five heald staves, and the above draft is given to the knitter with instructions for so many patterns to the inch. Say five patterns per inch: 5 × 12 would give a 60 reed, and the number of stitches per inch would be respectively 5, 10, 15, 20 and 10--the front one being equal to a Stockport 20’s, for if there were four similar to it in a set, the number of ends would be 20. Similarly the second stave equals a Stockport 40’s, the third 60’s, the fourth 80’s, and the fifth same as the second, a 40’s. To prove this, the requisite set of five staves might be obtained by taking one stave out of a plain 20’s set, two staves of a plain 40’s, one stave from a 60’s, and one from an 80’s set. WEIGHT OF A PIECE. In calculating the weight of a piece, the warp weight is obtained from the number of ends, based upon the width in the reed. This is multiplied by the sizing length and brought into hanks, from which the weight can be obtained by dividing by the counts. The weft is calculated from the picks to the inch, the reed width, and the actual length of piece. Example--A piece has to be made full dimensions, 36 inches wide, 36 yards long, 16 square (1/4 inch)--_i.e._, 64 ends per inch and 64 picks; yarns 30’s/36’s, the first number being the warp, sized 25 per cent. In the reed it would stand 38 inches, about six per cent. being allowed for contraction. Of course, if the yarn were coarser, the pick heavier, and the reed finer, more than this would be allowed. Supposing that a 60’s reed (Stockport) is used, the number of ends would be 38 × 60 = 2280; the length of warp, say 38 yards, allowing six per cent.--then (2280 × 38)/840 = 103-1/7 hanks, Divided by 30’s gives 3lb. 7oz. _Weft._--The weft, 37-1/2 inches wide, 64 picks; length of piece, 36 yards. (37-1/2 × 64 x 36)/(840 × 36’s) = 2lb. 13-3/4oz. 37-1/2 × 64 gives the number of inches of weft in one inch of cloth, or, what is the same, yards of weft in one yard of cloth. _Size._-- 3lb. 7oz. = 55oz. 25 per cent. on 55 = 55 × 25 ÷ 100 = 13-3/4oz. The weight of the piece is then-- Twist 3 : 7 Size 13-3/4 ----------------------- 4 : 4-3/4 Weft 2 : 13-3/4 ---------- 7 : 2-1/2 When the piece is measured by the long stick, about half an inch more to the yard must be reckoned--_e.g._, 38-inch: 14/14, 37-1/2 yards L.S., 38’s weft, to be 8-1/4lb. in weight; this would be perhaps 38-1/4 yards long S.S. _Weft._-- (40 × 56 × 38-1/4)/(840 × 38) = 2 : 10-3/4