Courts and courtiers; Europe -- Social life and customs
But as soon as we arrived at the Spanish port of Santander I forgot
everything in the excitement of a reception that amounted to a carnival.
With a staff of officers and dignitaries in uniform, and a troop of
cavalry as escort, we were driven in an open carriage, drawn by four
horses, through streets of which I could not see the fronts of the
houses--they were so covered with the reds and yellows of flags and
bunting that were dazzling in the vivid sunlight of Spain. There were
crowds on the pavement, in the windows, on the balconies, and even on
the house-tops; and they pelted us gaily with flowers tied in nosegays
with weighted stems so that they might be accurately thrown. They threw
at us doves with their feet tied to long strings, so that they could
flutter but not escape. We warded off the flowers with our parasols, and
standing up in the carriage I caught at the doves, while my mother, who
feared nothing in the world, kept crying out, in a nervous terror, that
she would faint if one of the birds touched her with its flutterings.
She had the sort of horror of them flying that one has of bats. And this
excited me. And the more excited I became, the more the crowd laughed
and cheered and pelted us. If Spain were going to be all like that, I
should be happy. It seemed impossible that these could be the same
people who had driven my mother away with hisses. The realisation that
they were truly the same made it seem, for the moment, that we were all
playing a part in a spectacle without sincerity. The thought worried me
as it passed.
We were being driven to the cathedral of Santander, where a Mass was to
be celebrated and the _Te Deum_ sung in thanksgiving for our return; and
there, at the church door, the bishop in his robes waited for us under a
canopy borne on poles by four young priests--the sort of canopy that he
walks under in processions of the _Corpus Christi_, when he carries the
Host through the streets. My mother, my two sisters, and I were taken
under this canopy with him, as if we were something sacred; and we were
solemnly escorted, by priests and acolytes, with music and singing and
candles and incense, up the aisle to the sanctuary, where four
throne-like chairs had been prepared for us before the altar. As I
watched the priests and the people, I wondered whether they were
sincere in this appearance of accepting us as sanctified by some sort of
divine right.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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