Courts and courtiers; Europe -- Social life and customs
It was, as I have said, as a young married woman that I had my first
experience of English life. The Comte and Comtesse de Paris, my
husband’s relatives, had been exiled from France and had been living for
some time in Tunbridge Wells. I spent many months with them there, and,
through their large circle of friends, I became acquainted with all
sorts and conditions of people, and soon found myself accepting the
hospitality of these newly-made friends. When I made it clear to my host
and hostess that I desired them to forget that I was an Infanta and to
be treated as an ordinary individual, etiquette was banished, and I was
able to do as I liked.
Life in the country houses always pleased me best. In those days it was
the custom for the family and guests to breakfast together, and I loved
the informality of it all undisturbed by the ministrations of liveried
lackeys. Often, when there were children in the house, they were allowed
to come to the table too, and we all had very jolly times over the
porridge.
We often went bicycling for the whole day, carrying our lunches with us
and eating them in some pleasant grove by the wayside. Sometimes we went
on coaching expeditions and lunched in some old thatch-covered inn. When
my children were little, I seldom missed passing some time in England
each summer, so that they too could enjoy the freedom of the open-air
life.
It did not take me long to appreciate the charm of the English home and
country, which are vastly different from anything abroad. In Spain,
people never live all the year round in the country if they can possibly
avoid it, and they seldom visit their estates unless they wish
practically to retire from the world. On the rare occasions when they do
snatch themselves from the conventional round of gaieties in the cities
or the big watering places, they shut themselves up in their big, bare
castles, receiving no one and seldom venturing outside their own
properties. It is almost a time of penance.
They are simply incapable of understanding the English love of life in
the open air, with its many exhilarating and ingenious pastimes which
appeal so strongly to me. More than that, they are inclined to look upon
such taste as rather ill-bred. For instance, only the humblest Spaniard
would dream of eating his cold lunch by the roadside, and I am sure that
the true aristocrat would never appreciate the charm of seeking out some
picturesque spot and having tea from a tea-basket. No Spanish lady of
quality would even allow herself to walk hatless in her own garden, and
reclining in a hammock or on the grass would be ruthlessly banned by her
traditions and upbringing.
One summer day Queen Cristina came to me with a look of sheer
consternation on her face.
“Eulalia,” she said, “I have just seen an appalling sight: an
Englishwoman lying on the grass in the park.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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