The Palazzo Narni and the Ponte del Paradiso made, a few years ago,
together one of the most beautiful corners in the world; go look at that
spot now; it is enough to make the grey-beard of Cadore rise from his
grave. There still remains on high, between the two houses, the
admirable cuspide of the Trecento, on which there is sculptured the
Madonna, who opens wide her mantle and her cloak to receive the kneeling
people; but the beautiful bridge has been destroyed, and in its place
has been built a frightful structure, with asphalte roadway and painted
metal parapet. In similar manner the elegant, yet bold, arches of the
three bridges at S. Nicolo di Tolentino exist nowhere, now, except upon
the canvases of painters, and the three banks, near the Campo di Marte,
which those graceful arches united, are now basely conjoined by three
erections of stucco and cast-iron.
'In the _Arzere_ of Santa Marta,' Molmenti writes in his latest
work, 'once so green and gay and sunlit, a poor quarter no
doubt, but one intensely interesting by customs and traditions,
there blocks the way now, in all its stolid vulgarity, a cotton
factory. Between the public gardens and the Lido, instead of
the lovely verdure of the island of Sant' Elena, in its grace
and its green twilight of drooped boughs, is a shapeless
expanse of mud and cinders, which spreads farther every season,
and threatens to invade the water-space which separates it from
the gardens and S. Pietro di Castello. On this desert of coke
and dirt there have been lately erected offices, sheds,
warehouses, chimneys, engines, in the midst of which there
still stands, hiding as though ashamed, the beautiful church of
the Quattro Cento. But the invasion has been useless; the
speculations have failed; and art and history mourn
unavailingly the senseless and profitless destruction of this
fairest gem of the lagoons: _insularum ocellus_. The ruin of
Sant' Elena, of the view of San Giorgio, of the bridge of San
Lio, the hideous new wing added to the noble brown marbles of
the Pal Tiepolo, the hideous iron warehouse fronting and
affronting the Ca d'Oro, the whitewash daubed on the Pal
Sagredo, the indecent alterations and additions to that jewel
of Pietro Lombardo the Pal Corner-Spinelli, the new red (like
ruddle or red ochre) with which the Pal Foscari has been
insulted, these are all offences which every traveller of
taste, every artist of culture, can see, and number, and
denounce. But countless, and unknown to the world in general,
and undreamed of by those who knew not Venice fifteen years
ago, is the enormous loss to the city by the destruction at the
hands of the Muncipal Councillors of the _Calli_, of the
_Arzere_, of the mediæval bridges, as of those of which I have
spoken above, of innumerable nooks and corners, historical and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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