convent in Havana, and a third, about seven years of age, who played
with the little niggers on the doorstep. There was a really fine grand
piano in one corner of the room, every single note of which was out of
tune, and on this delightful instrument the Señorita and a long, thin
young German, whose exact position in the family I never could
define,--I think he must have been the agent's son,--played airs from
Luisa Miller, Ernani, and other pre-historic operas, systematically
disarranged for the piano, for four hands, by a certain Signor Campara.
They were exceedingly proud of their performance, and, once started,
there was no possibility of stopping them until the cards were produced.
Then they flew to the table and took a most active interest in a game at
"Nap," at which I lost a considerable sum of money the first night, and
won it back again the second, to the Señora's extreme and evident
annoyance.
The most extraordinary part about this house was that there were no
single bedrooms. They were replaced by two dormitories on opposite sides
of the house, one for gentlemen and one for ladies. It was all very odd
and amusing, but the hospitality was unbounded. On the last evening of
our stay a _baile_ or dance was given in our honour, to which some of
the neighbours came, and danced the _creola_, and a very elaborate
country-dance in which I was forced to join. I am afraid I did not
acquit myself with much grace, for I was perpetually mistaking the
figures, which provoked much laughter. The ball ended at about two
o'clock in the morning, and most of the company went home on horseback,
after a supper at which no less than four infant pigs were consumed. I
never saw such a people as the Cubans for pork and sucking-pig,--about
the very last dish I should have expected to have come across in those
latitudes. We took leave of our friends with no little regret, for
though they were primitive and very superficially educated people, their
manners were excellent, most courteous, kindly, and well-bred. The
Señora, however, could never keep herself from laughing at our Spanish,
and at the evident reluctance with which we endeavoured to make believe
we enjoyed certain impossible dishes,--a roast iguana among the number.
I did overcome my repugnance to partaking of so unpleasant-looking a
reptile, and found it tasted exactly like tough roast chicken.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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