The impression produced upon the tourist arriving from Cuba is very
striking, for it brings the different influences of the Spanish and the
Anglo-Saxon races, upon the negroes, into vivid contrast. Personal
observation only can, as I have already said, give any idea of the filth
of the dwellings of the lower classes of Cubans, and especially of the
blacks. The coloured folk of Nassau are, generally speaking, clean and
tidy. Most of the Cuban towns are more or less squalid. The city of
Nassau is, if anything, too prim, and its inhabitants are models of
order both in their dress and habits. A glance reveals the fact that the
coloured people here have been disciplined and trained by a race which
is as certainly superior to the Spanish, in all that concerns
practicality and common sense, as it is inferior to it in natural
artistic instinct. I never saw anything--no, not even in the Whitechapel
and Drury Lane districts of London--to surpass the unutterable disorder
and general abomination of the interiors of the Cuban cottages. But as
you pass along the roads at Nassau, and glance into the windows of the
negroes' cottages, you will almost invariably see tidy interiors worthy
of the brush of a Teniers or a David Wilkie; a floor on which you could
eat your dinner; walls neatly papered with framed chromos symmetrically
arranged upon them; spotless curtains; shining brass lamps and cooking
utensils, and a bed covered with a counterpane as white as driven snow.
If you peep in at meal times you will note a clean cloth covered with
orderly-arranged plates and dishes. I am speaking of the dwellings of
the negroes, of those self-same coloured people who, in the same
climate, only a day and a half's journey away, in Cuba, dwell, under
another race and civilization, in a condition too nasty to be described
here.
Straws show how the wind blows. I saw a poor coloured woman, the day
after I arrived in Nassau, soundly box her little girl's ears because
she appeared in public with a few fluffs of cotton sticking in her wool.
The ordinary afternoon occupation of the coloured ladies in Havana is to
sit in the shade of the big plantain leaves, picking something rather
more animated than cotton fluffs off each other's heads. The Cuban
negresses dress flaringly. They trail a yard of skirt behind them in the
dust, cover their shoulders with a vivid embroidered China crape scarf,
and deck their heads with a mantilla. The effect is picturesque enough,
but look down at their ankles, and you will soon perceive untidy
petticoats and shoeless feet. The coloured girls at Nassau are
remarkably neat and clean, especially on Sundays. The influence of the
Sunday school teacher, preaching, and not in the desert, the gospel of
those four great evangelists, soap and water, comb and brush, is
everywhere manifest, even to the detriment of the picturesque.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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