As you drive through Grant's Town, the negro quarter of Nassau, you see
so much to gladden you that it does more real good to an invalid than
many a cunningly-prepared draught. Charmingly picturesque wooden huts,
thatched with palmetto, and as neat as you please, overshadowed by
cocoa-nut-trees and exquisite flowering creepers, border either side of
the road. On the thresholds are laughing groups of women and children of
every shade of black, mahogany, and "yullar." Then, when the shades of
evening grow long and deep in the thickets of the banyan-trees, coloured
Pyramus courts coloured Thisbe over the garden wall, and the roads swarm
with little darkies, romping, laughing, and chasing each other round and
about, whilst neatly-dressed women, standing at their doors, or leaning
out of their open windows, watch the return of their "men," as they
boldly call their husbands. The air is still and laden with the
penetrating perfume of the stephanotis, the white blossoms of which
gleam like stars amidst the dark foliage, and of the crimson and pink
oleander, which flowers here to great perfection. It is difficult to
imagine a more peaceful scene--the cheerful sounds of greeting, the
merry chatter of the negroes, the tuning of the banjoes, whilst overhead
the beautiful sunset-lit clouds shed rosy tints abroad, and set forth in
bold relief the tall stems of the waving palms and of the strange-named
trees, whose bizarre foliage arouses wonderment, and between whose
gnarled boughs we catch glimpses of the high-roofed houses of the city,
of the cathedral spire, and of a sea blue as a turquoise, now shivering
beneath the gentlest of breezes.
The town of Nassau itself is not particularly interesting, inasmuch
that, with the sole exception of the cathedral, it cannot boast of a
single monument of artistic importance. The houses, mostly built of
stone, faced with wood, have high slated roofs and wide verandahs, which
surround each storey, and afford some shade during the sunny hours of
the day. The public buildings are clean, but unpretentious, and
evidently modelled after those of some English county town, in which the
sturdy Georgian architecture predominates. There are few traces,
anywhere, of the influence of the higher art, although the cathedral
itself is a fairly handsome Gothic building, wherein the services of the
Church of England are admirably conducted.
The gardens are trim and pretty, but, notwithstanding their profusion of
tropical plants, they lack the luxuriant charm which renders the
ill-kept gardens of Havana so romantic and picturesque. Very few of the
gardens belonging to private houses are of great size, and even
Government House is a modest-looking dwelling, erected on the highest of
the surrounding hills, and commanding a fine view of the town and
harbour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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