Not very far off stood, until quite the end of the last century, a
curious old house, with a figure of St Christopher painted upon it,
which doubtless had a lamp constantly burning before it. Possibly it was
in honour of the saint here represented that the future Discoverer of
the New World was christened Christopher. On entering the city proper,
through the arch of St Andrea, the prospect, in the days of Columbus'
youth, was by no means cheerful. The houses, like those of Edinburgh,
rose seven and even eleven storeys, making the narrow courts and
passage-like streets look not unlike dark openings in a Californian
cañon. The hilly position of the town, however, lent itself admirably to
picturesque effects, and the brilliance of the deep blue sky above, and
of the broad streaks of sunlight falling on the squares and little
piazza, brightened what might otherwise have been exceedingly gloomy and
depressing. The palaces of the nobility looked more like fortresses than
civic residences, with scarcely a window on the street. Each possessed a
tall, turreted watch-tower of red brick, picked out with marble, the
finest specimen of which, now existing, is that of the Imbriaci. The
churches and oratories were amazingly numerous, but they were nearly all
exactly alike, built in very plain Gothic architecture, with façades
streaked with alternated layers of black and white marble. A few have
escaped the vandalistic restorations of the 17th and 18th centuries, and
of these the best remaining specimens are the Cathedral, San Matteo
Doria, Santa Maria del 'Orto (desecrated), San Cosmo, San Donate, San
Stefano, and Sant Agostino (desecrated).
But in the 15th century they were to be met with at every turn of the
street, giving a very peculiar appearance to the city. The finest
palaces bordered the Ripa by the port, and these were so beautifully
decorated with frescoes and gilding that Petrarch declared that "nothing
could be imagined more magnificent." The Strade Nuova, Nuovissima, and
Balbi, with their splendid Renaissance palaces, did not come into
existence until late in the 16th and 17th centuries. The Cathedral was
in much the same condition as at present, and the Bank of St George, now
in process of restoration, was considered one of the wonders of the
world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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