If the architecture of the city was picturesque, its population was
indescribably so. The streets teemed with life and colour. There were
men in armour, sailors from all parts of the world, guardsmen in the
Doge's liveries striped scarlet and white, ladies of rank proceeding to
church attended by their women, and escorted by little negro pages
bearing their trains, or screening them from the ardour of the sun with
immense, crimson silk parasols. Rich dames, lolling in litters hung with
painted Cordova leather, were carried to and fro on the shoulders of
stalwart African slaves. Veiled women of the people, with their children
clinging round them, sitting outside their doors, not infrequently
engaged in a hair hunt. Priests, monks, and nuns, in every imaginable
kind of ecclesiastical costume, mingled with herculean porters from the
quays, with soldiers and nobles, Levantines and Jews, each in their own
peculiar costume, so that if the houses were sombre, the streets were
ablaze with brilliant and varied dresses. At night, however, the city
looked desolate. Only the lamps burning before the images of the Madonna
and Saints lit up the gloomy thoroughfares and darksome piazzas. At "Ave
Maria," in winter time, everybody was indoors saying the Rosary. Three
times a day, as the "Angelus" tolled, the whole population stopped and
repeated the angelic salutation. This pious custom lasted until quite
late into the first half of the present century.
Unlike Venice, Genoa was no city of pleasure. On the other hand, its
population dearly loved pageantry. Religious processions of the utmost
splendour were of such everyday occurrence that people scarcely noticed
them. The Doge went about attended by at least a hundred officers and
servants. On great festivals the balconies were hung with brocades and
wreaths of fresh flowers, while half the town preceded the Host or the
images of the Madonna and Saints, to the admiration of the other half,
crowding the sidewalks and the overhanging balconies.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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